




f O 







' ,0 


















■Jsi* 



i Mm 



Elf OEIS 



AT HAVA^^A, N. Y., 



^ITH pESCRIPTIYE PoEMS 



"The glen, the glen— the silent gleu! 
Oh, how I love its solitude !^'— Neale. 



BY H. C. WINTON. 



i^ 



/_ky i- Jy 



-rQ^ 



ITHACA, N. Y.: 

ANDRU9, McCHAIN & CO., STEAM PRINTERS. 
1868. 






Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year ISCS, 

BY L. G. WINTON, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Northern District 
of New York. 



3*5-3 r 



^ 




\ 



<?. 



CONTEXTS 



Sections of the Glen, ..... 


4 


Preface, . . . . 


5 


General Observations, .... 


9 


The Glen— 


- 


Entrance of the Glen, 


18 


The Portal Cascade, .... 


19 


The Eagle Cliff Falls, 


20 


The Curtain Cascade, .... 


23 


Central Gorge, .... 


24 


The Hermit's Cave, .... 


26 


The Whispering Falls, ... 


27 


Echo Falls, ..... 


28 


T"he Fairies' Cascade, 


29 


The Summit Falls, 


30 


Seneca Lake from the Highlands of the Glen, 


31 


A Pioneer of the Valley, .... 


38 


The Havana Falls, .... 


40 


The Peoples College, .... 


42 


Catharinestown, 


43 


Poems — 




Seneca Lake. J. B. Look. 


7 


McClure's Glen. J. B. Look. 


49 


The Indian Burial-Ground. H. C. T\'ixton. 


54 


The Bride of the Seneca. John Wilson. 


55 


To Seneca Lake. Percival. 


64 


The Two Hats. John Wilson. 


. • 65 


Catharine Montonr. H. C. Winton. 


67 


Autumn in the Glen. John Wilson. 


. IS 


The Peoples College. H. C. Wlnton. 


'75 


The Cave of the Echoes. John Wilson. 


79 



SECTIONS OF THE GLEx\. 



First Section, 
Second Section, 
Third Section, 
Fourth Section, 
Fifth Section, 
Sixth Section, 



. Glex Montour. 

" The Pride of the Senecas, 
. Glen of the Caverns. 

Glen Chaos. 
. Glen of the Echoes, 

Glen of the Tools. 



PBEF A CE 



It is hoped that the following pages may merit the appro- 
bation of the visitors and admirers of the Glen. 

Should they receive sufficient encouragement, it is not 
improbable that a larger work may be issued at some future 
time, embellished with copious illustrations. 

The general pubhc, who are not familiar with the Glen — 
its rocky paths, giant cliffs, sparkling cascades, and diversi- 
fied scenery, in short, with the majesty and beauty of Nature 
which is here so lavishly displa3^ed — will perhaps regard the 
descriptive portions of this work in the light of an introduc- 
tion, as they are merely designed to point out some of the 
more remarkable features of this interesting summer resort. 
Should the visitor or tourist, while pausing to admire the 
wondrous beauty and sublimity of this natural Labyrinthian 
Gorge, or while reclining beneath the umbrageous foliage of 
the Glen, find in this little volume a source of pleasure or 
information, then it will not have been written in vain. 

The few fragments of history, of incidents connected with 
days that are past, which are interwoven in portions of these 
desultory sketches concerning the Seneca Lake region, it is 
hoped may not be found entirely devoid of interest, either to 



the geiiei-al reader, the touiist ; or to the excursionists, so 
many of whom cross the sparkhng waves of the ever beau- 
teous Seneca, in visiting the giens and cascades of the ro- 
mantic valley, extending from its head waters towards the 
broad intervales of the Chemung and the Susquehanna. 

The limits of this work will not permit of much that might 
be interesting, perhaps, concerning the aboriginal occupation 
and pioneer settlements of this region, once the western fron- 
tier. The writer, however, has for some time been engaged 
in collecting materials, and has already in an advanced stage 
of preparation various extended sketches, which in due time 
ma}' appear. 



SENEGA LAKE. 



BY J. B. LOOK. 



Tliou crj'stal mirror, clear and bright, 

Where red men rode in their bark canoe 
Thou ming'lest with the moon's pale light, 

Thy requiem seems a fond adieu ; 
The " pale face," now, glides o'er th}'- crest ; 

The red man was compelled to flee ; 
I sit and gaze upon thy breast — 

O, whisper not farewell to me. 

I read thy legends long of yore, 

They seem to whisper yet to me ; 
But now I see thy rock-bound shore, 

^yhere wild men bent their savage knee. 
Thy every breath brings fresh perfume, 

Thy flowers are touched with heavenly dies ; 
Thou seem'st to all my sight consume ; 

I'm basking now between two skies. 

The brooklets flow askance the hill, 

And seem to leap to mingle there ; 
Thou seem'st to beckon to each rill, 

I hear thy whisper on the air. 
Near to thy sides the forest groves 

Are talking back in cadence clear ; 
I linger 'round thy sleeping caves. 

My sight is lost through charms of ear. 

O, silv'ry lake, I'd sing to thee 

The sweetest cadence of my song 
Thou ling'rest yet in dreams with me, 

I would thy mem'ry still prolong. 
But Per civ al once touched liis lyre, 

And breathed thee an undying name. 
He set my sluggish soul on fire. 

And made me pant for writing fame. 



General Observations. 



Within the limits of the Empire State many rare speci- 
mens of Natural Scenery are found. 

While some of them are more striking or magnificent than 
othei-s, they all furnish boundless themes for the imagination 
of the writer, numerous subjects for the pencil of the artist, 
and a source of never ending delight to the beholder. 

Each new candidate for public favor, each new locality 
of natural scenic interest, invites more or less attention as its 
peculiarities or originalities, if we may be allowed the word 
in this sense, become notorious. 

Like many other important natural attractions in Western 
New York, the wild and startling scenery of the locality of 
which these pages are to speak — McClure's Glen — a beauti- 
ful mountainous ravine in the Seneca Lake Region, to be 
appreciated needs a personal inspection. Nothing less can 
satisfy the imagination or give to the reader much more than 
a faint idea of what it really is, to say nothing of the inade- 
quacy of any or all attempts to portray with pencil or pen 
the magnificent beauties of the world around us. 

At each successive step the beholder seems to turn a fresh 
page in the book of Nature, engraven as it were in the rocky 
tablets of this singular ravine ; — the volume bound in blue 
and green, the cerulean sky above our heads, and the dense 
foliage heavily embroidering the towering cliffs which are 
every where visible, from its unpretending commencement 



10 

in the vale to its summit hundreds of feet above. These, 
taken together with the undulating evergreens when moved 
b}' the passing summer breeze ; the unceasing music of the 
restless waters leaping from rock to rock, combined with the 
roar of the I'everberating cascades; the strains of the feath- 
ered songsters which are heard in the recesses of the sur- 
rounding forests; the alternate lights and shadows mirrored 
upon the surface of the numerous pools and water-courses 
of the Glen, may explain the reason why this quiet retreat 
presents such rare attractions to the solitary student of Na- 
ture or the votaries of pleasure, who are so frequently seen 
tracing its winding pathways. 

It may perhaps be a matter of no little surprise, that ar- 
rangements were not long since made so that the Glen might 
have been accessible. This has been owing to various cir- 
cumstances ; and while the few have been aware of the pecu- 
liar channel made by the action of this singular stream, in its 
course from the Tamarac Swamp among the hills of the 
town of Catharine, while madly plunging and tumbling from 
the Seneca Lake Highlands, in their seeming haste to reach, 
via. the Lake and its outlet, the broad waters of Lake Ontario, 
from thence to mingle through the River St. Lawrence in the 
vast bosom of the Atlantic — until quite recently the great nat- 
ural beauties which for centuries have here been gradually 
developing, have been almost entirely hidden away from the 
pubhc gaze. It has been comparatively almost totally un- 
known, or at least known and explored by the few, so for- 
midable v/ere the natural barriers or obstacles presented in 
its passage. 

Previous to the summer of 1867, at which time the Glen 



11 

was opened to the public, by means of paths, stairways, 
bridges, etc.,he who would have sought to examine its hidden 
recesses, would have found that many valuable requisites 
generally supposed to be possessed by a skillful or daring 
topographical engineer, would not have come amiss, either in 
his mental or physical organization. 

The means at present for exploring the entire Glen, although 
not yet perfected, are such that with ordinary caution a ram- 
ble through it may be regarded a safe one. As the work of 
making the pathways, etc., progresses, improvements in their 
construction will undoubtedly be suggested, which may tend 
to lessen the fatigue of the journey and also give an opportu- 
nity to pass certain points, which may afford better views of 
some portion of the ravine, which in the haste that character- 
ized the primary labors of opening the Glen, may have escaped 
due attention. Besides, as the first paths and structures were 
made when the volume of the stream Avas very low, it is 
quite probable that Dame Nature will point out at times of 
high water, and in a manner not to be misunderstood, changes 
which will be needed in the location of bridges and stairways 
in this portion of her dominions. Some of these changes at 
present are evident, yet we are reminded of the old adage 
that " Rome was not built in a day." In this connection it 
may be mentioned, that in the month of Julj^, 1867, when the 
sound of the workman's hammer was first heard in the Glen, 
the work was carried on with almost astonishing rapidit}^, by 
the efforts of the citizens of Havana, prominent among whom 
were the members of Myrtle Lodge, No. 131, F. & A. M. 

Less than four days of the combined and voluntary labors 
of the many willing hands engaged in the enterprise, were 



12 

s 

required to render the first section of the Glen accessible, 
including the means of ascending the airy heights of Eagle 
Cliff Falls and the approaches to the Curtain Cascade, in the 
spacious amphitheatre above. The undertaking, stimulated 
by the enthusiasm of its inherent novelty was continued, and 
soon the triple staircase was completed through the Central 
Gorge, and the bridge erected across the stream just above. 
This was the last artificial structure erected in 1867. For 
convenience and entire safety other structures and paths are 
needed, but in ordinary seasons the present ones are sufficient 
with slight improvements or repairs, to render the passage of 
the Glen completely feasible. Although its opening incurred 
considerable effort and expense, no admission fees are charged. 

Each season has its peculiar charms in the Glen, but to 
the generality of people perhaps, the summer is the most de- 
lightful time in which to make the visit. The cascades, how- 
ever, are on. some accounts, seen at a much greater advan- 
tage immediately after the heavy spring or autumnjil rains. 

The visitor, while enjoying the cool shades and gentla 
breezes of the Glen in June or July, may perhaps imagine the 
" situation" when the stream is vastly swollen, or how the 
rocks and cliff's must appear when firmly bound in winter's 
cold embrace, festooned with massive icy pendants glittering 
beneath an eff'ulgent noon-day sun. In the autumn, also, 
when the forest leaves are turning to a scarlet hue, the scene 
is beautifully grand; one by one silently falling, some borne 
along by the ceaseless water's flow, others wafted here and 
there at the sport of the wind. Then all Nature proclaims 
that the brfef season is ending, the fleeting year drawing to 
its close ; that when another bright spring-time shall approach, 



13 

the trees shall commence to put on new robes of green, the 
smiling rocks, purified by the lingering departure of the melt- 
ing ice and snow, shall present fresh beauties to her welcome 
visitants, some of whom will doubtless ramble along the paths 
ere the first violets of spring have presented their tinj^ buds, 
or even dared to peep from their lowly beds. 

Some of the visitors who may easily leap across the stream 
at various points, in the summer season, know but little of 
the vast torrents of rushing and foaming waters, which course 
along through this ravine during the time of great freshets. 
. Sometimes large trees are uprooted, and huge boulders of 
rock are displaced and carried downwards, by the seething 
flood. Some of the effects of these periodical risings of the 
waters, may be seen in the channel of the stream both at the 
eiitrance of the Glen, and in the varied and romantic passa- 
ges in the ascent from tlie Portal Cascade, to the Witches' 
Caldron, situated in the midst of Central Gorge. 

In other respects besides its gorgeous scener^^, the Glen 
is interesting. Geologically considered, the rocks principally 
belong to the Chemung Group, aud among their shale and 
sandstone formations, much is found to engage the attention 
of the lover of Natural History. Sulphur Salts, formed by 
the decomposing shales, are occasionally observed, — a short 
distance above the Eagle- Cliff Falls, they exude from the 
rocks in small quantities near the water's edge. The soil 
about the entrance of tlie Glen is diversified in its nature, and 
abounds in pure living springs. Along the rocky avenues 
tlaere exist also, many curious specimens of the vegetable 
kingdom, some of which are peculiar to this locaHty. 

During the opening season of the Glen, numerous pic-nie 



14 

parties were held in the groves near its entrance. The hir- 
gest one was attended Sept. 18th, 1867 — a Grand Masonic 
Pic-nic and Festival. Large numbers of the Order, and oth- 
ers, were present, from various sections of the State. 

The Pic-nic v/as one of much interest, and furnished a day 
lonir to be remembered in the annals of the Glen. In a let- 
ter of Jas. G. Clark, the Poet VocaUst, who attended, to 
the Utica Morning Herald, we find the following : " A per- 
son once seeing this spot can never forget it, and this sight is 
well v/orth a journey from Utica to Havana. There were, 
perhaps, 5,000 persons present at the pic-nic — some say 
10,000 — and the majority of them explored the Glen." 

The Corning Democrat also remarks — " The Masonic 
Pic-Nic at Havana, on Wednesday, for the benefit of The 
Peoples College, was eminently successfuL An immense 
crowd of people was present. The cities of New York and 
Ehiiira sent their thousands, escorted by bands, and the coun- 
try around was well represented. * * * A fine grove 
at the mouth of McClure's Glen, was the scene of the Pic- 
Nic — a gay and enhvenng scene it was, too, with groups 
scattered here and there, discussing the contents of their bas- 
kets, the beauties of the Glen and grove, the promises for 
the success of the Institution, which it had now become the 
pride of the " mystic band" to complete, establish and per- 
petuate. " 

The Excursion or Pic-nic parties generally bring refresh- 
ments or lunches with them, which frequently add much to 
the comfort or enjoyment of such occasions. As a matter 
of course, these parties include large proportions of those who 
know so well how to prepare a dainty sandwich or a tempt- 



15 

ing dish of tongue. Parties, especiail}^ from a distance, usu- 
ally partake of their repasts in the grove — where convenient 
tables are always in readiness, the incidental delay affording 
an opportunity for refreshing rest, which is quite desirable to 
prepare for the ascent of the ravine. The arrangements 
are such, however, that refreshments can always be obtained 
at the buildings near the entrance of the Glen, where also 
any articles of apparel or incumbrance may be left, which are 
not particularly needed during the ramble. Parties wishing 
any souvenirs of the locality can here also obtain fine Stere- 
oscopic Viev,'s of the Glen, by which mean^^the visitor, al- 
though at a distance, may afterwards, perhaps pleasantly^ 
while away some leisure hour. 

Visitors generally — more especially the ladies— will do 
well to come prepared with suitable dresses, which in making 
the journey are very desirable, as far as comfort, safety, and 
economy are concerned. 

The Glen, in a public point of view, is yet comparatively in 
its infancy. Time must show in what manner it will be re- 
garded ; but thus far, there seem no lack of indications that 
its celebrity will increase, as its attractions become known. 

From the many flattering notices it has already received, a 
few of which are at hand, we make several short extracts 
Vvhich may serve to show the growing estimation in which 
it is held. A large Excursion Party from Ithaca visited it in 
Aug. 1867. From the accouut of the trip we take the follow- 
ing from the Ithaca Journal : " This romantic spot has just 
been opened to visitors and is one of rare beauty. " 

The Penn Yan Express says, " We think the people of 
Havana are altogether too modest in their claims as to the 



16 

beauties and attractions of this Glen. In many respects we 
think it surpasses the famous Glen at Watkins. Its beautiful 
cascades, its walled passages, its wierd nooks and caves 
?eem almost indescribable. Nature's haridiwork here sur- 
passes the most wonderful works of art." A highly compli- 
mentary description of the Glen and vicinity in the Elmira 
Gazette, alludes to " The wonders and strildng features of 
this gem of all Glens/' The Watkins Independe?it speaks 
of its scenery as "Sublime, magnificent— and challenges the 
admiration of the world." 

A correspondent of the Union Springs Advertiser, who 
was *at the Masonic Pic-Nic, says, " This Glen is not quite 
as extensive or as well known as the one at Watkins, but 
we, as well as all we heard express an opinion, pronounced 
its scenery in some parts, as finer and more beautiful than 
anything in the latter." Of Central Gorge, he continues, " it 
is far ahead of anything of the kind that we have ever seen." 



17 



^HE G 



LEN. 



MrCLURE's GLE?f is situated in the town of Montour, 
near the village of Havana, Schuyler Co., N. Y. 

The latter point is accessible several times daily b}' the 
trains of the Northern Central Railway, which connect with 
the Erie at Elmira, and at Canandaigua vt^ith the New York 
Central. Visitors coming by Steamers over Seneca Lake 
can take the cars at Watkins, three miles from Havana, or 
may enjoy a pleasant carriage drive of four miles from the 
Steamboat landing to the entrance of the Glen. 

Tourists or parties so desiring, can take the cars at Elmira, 
Canandaigua, or even Rochester in the morning, and have 
ample time for a ramble through the Glen and return by the 
afternoon or evening trains the same day. Those who love 
to commune with Nature in her most rugged forms, and be- 
hold beautiful specimens of elaborate scenery, will perhaps 
rarely regret a day thus employed. 

Supposing the visitor to have arrived at Havana, one of 
the most important buildings which engage the attention, is 
The Peoples College, situated on a rising eminence in 
the south-eastern portion of the village. To this Institution 
is attached a farm of one hundred acres, a portion of which 
encompasses the mouth of the Glen. Taking either of the 
streets which lead in the direction of the College, as we pro- 



18 

ceed southwards up the vallej^ we leave this edifice at our 
left. After traveling along the highway for the distance of 
less than half a mile from the College, our road tnriis to the 
left — towards the rising sun. Pursuing this route a short disr- 
tance, we reach the foot of the hill and also the enclosure or 
field, at the farther extremity of which the entrance to the 
Glen is found. To this open plain or plateau might well be 
given the name of "Do-o-se-o-wah," which signifies in the lan- 
guage of the Iroquois, the aboriginal owners of the soil and 
perhaps the first admirers of the Glen, a place where the bass- 
woods grow. This plain, surrounded on three sides by tall 
forest trees, interspersed with shady groves, forms a pecu- 
liarly pleasing place, for the assemblage of pleasure or pic-nic 
parties in summer, and might appear to the attentive observer 
as a sort of a beautiftd foreground to the changing scenes of 
the picture, constantly presented in the ramble through the 
Glen to the highlands above. 

The first view at the mouth of the ravine or 

ENTRANCE OF THE GLEN, 

is not an uninteresting one. The action of the waters in cen- 
turies past, has gradually worn away the yielding shales on 
either side of the channel, until they have reached the solid 
rocks which underlie them. Here the noise of the constantly 
falling waters breaks upon the ear, while among the adjacent 
forest trees may be heard the notes of the sweet warbfing 
birds, 

" To approach and behold her varied delights, 
Here with exquisite charms, all JS'ature invites." 

Following the path which leads to Sylvan Bridge just 
above the first Falls, 



19 

THE PORTAL CASCADE, 

if we pause for a moment we may behold the foaming waters 
beneath our feet hastening downwards to the pool at the base 
of the cascade, where they seem to loiter awhile, e'er con- 
tinuing their northward bound journey. At this point the 
waters of McClure's Creek,* in then- course from the High- 
lands, take their final leap into the valley of the Seneca Lake. 
The stream being a tributary of Catharine Creek, or the Sen- 
eca Inlet, the waters of the Glen are borne successively, via. 
lake and river, to the broad waters of the Atlantic — in their 
passnge sparkling among the Thousand Isles of the St. Law- 
rence, or rolling sluggishly beneath the heights of Quebec 
Here we notice the water-worn and rocky channel which has 
taken ages for its completion. We may also obtain in pass- 
ing, a view of the rushing waters leaping from the brink of 
the Eagle CliiT Falls forther up the ij^avine. Standing upon 
the rustic structure, Sylvan Bridge, looking up and down 
the ravine, we begin to realize many of the hidden beauties of 
this Section of the Glen — Glen Montour. On the southern 
bank near the bridge, as well as at points farther up the 
stream, a singular formation may be seen — a sort of petrified 
moss. • It is called Calcareous Tufa, and bears some resem- 
blance to marl.f 

Different views of Glen Montour are obtained, according 
to the route chosen by the visitor in reaching Sylvan Bridge 

*N"am eel from the first settlers upon its banks. Thomas McChire Sr,. one 
of tie earliest pioneers in this region, came with his family from the valley of 
W^^mg .iloug the narrow Indian trail leading from Newtown (now Elmira), 
^ f tfe Revof ^'^^ about the year 1TS9. He was a soidier during the dark hours 

east^'ird '"''^^''^^^c Swamp where McClure's Creek arises, perhaps six miles 

wattfs frc^ ^'^'"Se bed of marl from which lime is made may be found. The 

1 m the other extremity of this swamp flow into the Chesapeake Bay. 



20 

In times of very low water the ascent may be made by 
crossing the stream just below the Portal Cascade, and clam- 
bering up the narrow rocky steps which lead to the tabular 
rock below the bridge. This affords several fine views which 
are not observed if the visitor prefers the path on the left, 
which leads up the stairway, not far from the entrance^ 
The latter structure was not erected until after the close of 
the first season. The original path, now but rarely used, led 
through the woods on the south side of the ravine. 

Although The Portal Cascade is not over ten or twelve 
feet in height, still, as the commencement of a long series of 
varying water-falls, it shoulJ'not be passed unnoticed, or the 
chain of miniature falls just above — the Sylvan Rapids. All 
these seem to foretell the grandeur of the scenery beyond. 
As we advance through Glen Montour, and obtain a fuller 
view of 

THE EAGLE CLIFF FALLS 

in the background, the scene is an impressive one indeed. 
The proud Eagle Cliffs on either hand tower high above the 
summit of the Falls. They attract much attention which 
they assuredly deserve. The one at the right, Prospect Cliff, 
is one hundred and thirty feet high. The name of this Cas- 
cade is derived from the Eyrie, which may be seen attached 
to the rugged cliff opposite the Falls, where it has been known 
tf exist for a long period of years, in the almost unbroken 
sohtude of Nature. These Falls, the highest in the Gle^, 
taken together with the singular channel just above their brirk, 
form a beautiful picture of glen scenery greatly adtP^'-^^ ^^ 
perhaps rarely equalled. Some protection is here nieaedto 
prevent the waters from washing away the table ro(' ^^^^ 



21 

the brink of the cascade, whereby much of its present beauty 
would be lost. Yonder lofty pine, rearing its head far above 
the frowning heights, seems almost a standing sentinel. In its 
top an eagle perched might with sweeping eye command the 
situation and watch any ill-omened approach to the eyrie be- 
low. Although the latter has long been unused by its buil- 
ders, it is hoped that the airy structure may remain undis* 
turbed. The unbroken fall of the stream at this point is 
forty- five or fifty feet. Its appearance in the winter of 1867 
and '68, was highly interesting. The waters freezing as they 
fell, the stream became entirely fettered with a solid mass of 
ice from two to eighteen feet in thickness, so that while the 
imprisoned waters were unseen, they might be distinctly 
heard forcing their way througli the glittering incrustation. 

Ascending the oak stairwa}^ and pausing a moment for 
contemplation, a strange scene is presented. Here, at the 
commencement of the second sub-division of the Glen — - 
" The Pride of the Senecas" — the stream seems to emerge 
from a spacious room or hall in the form of an L. 

The fcicings of the rocky sides are so evenly cut or worn 
by the action of the waters, as to give to this wonderful nat- 
ural chamber a singularly artistic appearance. The stream 
here* as will be noticed in changing its course, forms a right 
angle — no less than eight others are also made within a mile 
from the Portal Cascade. In many places the whitish col- 
ored mosses or lichens clinging to the solid walls of this 
chamber, give it the appearance of having been rudely white- 
washed or frescoed. The main hall or passage way is sixty 
feet in length and about twenty-five in width. The average 
height of the facings or sides of this natural masonry is per- 



haps thirt}' feet. The area of the rocky flooring washed by 
the waters in the two divisions of this singular chamber — 
the "Council House of the Senecas" — is over two hundred 
square yards. 

At different stand points in this Section of the Glen, the 
various views obtained both in ascending and descending are 
exceedingly beautiful. Much of this romantic beauty con- 
sists in the lofty elevation as compared with the spacious am- 
phitheatre in the Glen below, and the novel spectacle of the 
great artistic skill displayed in the construction of this natu- 
ral passage — this singular specimen of natural architecture. 

The visitor may easily imagine that he beholds pulpits and 
.rostrums in the galleries above — the moss-covered, sloping 
banks rising far above the bed of the stream, richly laden 
with the original products of the soil, where, owing to the 
dense foliage the summer's sun rarely penetrates. Here, in 
the years that are past have been echoed the wild hunting 
songs of the Senecas ! Here, amid the temples of Nature, 
the green groves of the wild woods, in the midst of these en- 
chanting scenes of grandeur, they have reverently bowed in 
allegiance to Hah-wen-ne-yoh, the Great Spirit of the Iro- 
quois ! 

Following the path which here leads some distance above 
the bed of the stream, we pass the " Lover's Rest, " a small 
or miniature cave in the rocks merely large enough for two 
to occupy, which to those romantically inchned might seem 
a fitting place, to whisper " the old, old story" of 

" Two souls with but a single thought, 
Two hearts that beat as one," 

In one pjjrticular, at least, this Glen presents a formida- 



23 

ble rival to the preceding one, and that is in the exquisite 
beauty of 

THE CURTAIN CASCADE. 

This charming scene is considered by many, as one of the 
finest views in the Glen. Its beauties, to be appreciated, 
should be seen from the ledge of rocks on the southern bank 
of the ravine, several rods below the Cascade. The foam- 
ing waters rolling down the shelving rocks, seem to proceed 
leisurely for a short distance, and then a second abrupt fall 
is made, after which they sport in the pool below. The low- 
er fall is about eight feet in height and appears as a sort of an 
apron or curtain. The name, however, is given by the "Cur- 
tain Rock " — nearly hidden from observation by the foliage 
on the leff, which completelj^ shuts out from view the upper 
portion of the Cascade before reaching it, while proceeding 
along the main path. The height of the two sections, or of 
the double falls is perhaps thirty-five or forty feet. 

One peculiarity of the Glen is worthy of notice. The 
stream, for perhaps a mile from the entrance of the ravine, 
makes so many curious changes in its course, — at one mo- 
ment in a winding or zig-zag direction, then turning perhaps 
at right angles, that the visitor at times is somewhat bewil- 
dered in trying to make out what will come next, or in what 
direction the pathway will lead to enable him to continue his 
explorations. This is particularly the case while looking up 
the ravine, from the point heretofore specified as affording the 
best view of the Curtain Cascade. 

Leaving the latter, let us leisurely proceed along the path 
crossing over the bridge. A few paces bring us to the base 



24 

of a short flight of steps, at the summit of which we obtain 
some fine views. Continuing our progress beneath the frown- 
ing cliffs, we again cross the stream and find ourselves upon 
a narrow ledge of rocks, gazing upon the wild, startHng 
scenerv of 

CENTRAL GORGE. 

This Gorge, as will be inferred from its name, is situated 
near the center of the Glen. During seasons of great fresh- 
ets, the angry waters here afford a magnificent spectacle, — 
madly rushing through the narrow, wierd-like chasm, into 
the pool below — the ''Witches' Caldron." Central Gorge is 
remarkable for its extent, its grandeur and suljlimity. The 
lover or student of Nature is strikingly impressed with the 
superior romance and intense wildness of the scene! The 
same forces which have formed the Glen at one point nearly 
three hundred feet in width, at another perhaps have reduced 
its width to three ; and the same Power which has caused 
the lofty cliff' to stand out in bold relief, has also caused its 
base or brow to be adorned with sweetest ferns or wild flow- 
ers rare. Trie scenery here, as viewed from the wind- 
ing stairways reaching upwards through the narrow Gorge, 
or from its lofty parapets, is romantic in the extreme, while 
the Falls o'erhung with bold cliffs almost hidden in the re- 
cesses of the ravine, seem to be just what is wanted to com- 
plete the picture. From the lower stairway at times the mag- 
nificent beauties of the rainbow may be observed, while look- 
ing up the Gorge, visible through the sriowy veil or mantle 
of whitened spray arising from the tortuous channel. Look- 
ing down the stream after having ascended perhaps two thirds 



25 

of the upper long stairway, we obtain a fine view of the cir- 
cnlar pools far beneath our feet. 

Taken together with all its surroundings, Central Gorge 
is well calculated to inspire the mind with mingled emotions 
of awe and admiration. Truly, while enraptured in its con- 
templation or dwelling upon the sublimity of the scene, we 
are forcibly reminded of the feebleness of human nature, and 
the thought almost involuntarily arises, — " How manifold are 
Thy works, in wisdom hast Thou made them all." The be- 
holder seems to stand in one of Nature's wildest haunts. 
The venerable cliffs, here and there clothed with verdure up- 
on portions of which the golden sunbeams rarely rest ; the 
surging waters hurrying as if in fear from the deep and dark 
ab\^ss ; the variegated mosses fondly clinging to sections of 
rock which date their creation in buried ages; all these 
are but a few of the many interesting features here visible. 
This Gorge varies in depth from fifty to seventy-five or one 
hundred feet. Before leaving the confines of this remarkable 
chasm, and while wending our way along its northern escarp- 
ment, we find a convenient resting place which comes very 
opportune to the majority of visitors. Many traverse the 
Glen in too much haste as far as pleasure or comfort is con- 
cerned. But if the visitor has not been too hurried in the 
ramble thus far, and has taken brief rest occasionally, it will 
perhaps be ascertained that there are many beautiful and ro- 
mantic views in the upper sections of the Glen. Certainly 
several fine cascades, together with many wonderful freaks 
of Nature, are visible during the remainder of the journey. 

Leaving Central Gorge we cross Cavern Bridge, located 
at the entrance of the Glen of The Caverns. In the latter 



26 

we find many strange peculiarities among the narrow, ang- 
ling, jagged walls. It might ver^'- easily be imagined the re- 
sort of a daring Free Booter, situated on some wild and sea 
girt shore. A short distance from the bridge on the northern 
bank of the stream, may be seen a huge pillar of rock nearly 
detached from the main column. It is some twenty-five or 
thirty feet in height, and sooner or later this massive stony 
structure must fall, as it is operated upon by the frosts of 
winter and the rains of summer. The deep cleft or crevice 
where the column is severed, in some places is less than a 
foot in width. Here and there may be seen openings or fissures 
in the various strata, caused by the action of the waters cen- 
turies since. Among these singular fissures and caverns in 
this interesting locality, one is known as Tue Indiazs^ Oven. 
Near the latter is 

THE HERMITS CAVE, 

situated some eighteen or twenty feet above the bed of the 
stream, and is almost entirely concealed from observation. 

Its appearance is strikingly romantic from its peculiar lo- 
cation and surroundings. Many by climbing, manage to ex- 
plore the cave without artificial assistance. The Indian Oven 
is several feet in height and perhaps eight or ten in depth — 
much smaller than the Hermit's Cave. 

Having now passed through the grandest and wildest por- 
tions of the Glen, from this point the Cascades are lessened 
in height compared with the larger ones in the lower Glens, 
and we shall find less fatigue in chmbing. It might here be 
remarked, that the upper cascades derive much of their intrin- 
sic interest from the marked features or associations distinct- 



27 

ively belonging to each. Next, in the order of our progress 
comes 

THE WHISPERING FALLS, 

so named from the gentle murmurings of the waters over 
their rocky bed, as contrasted with the neighboring Cascades. 

Near the brink of these Falls a natural table and seat of 
sohd rock may be noticed, and while pausing here in the 
pleasant summer time viewing the lights and shadows in this 
portion of the Glen, listening to the son^ of the warbling 
birds together with the rustling of the soft zephyrs breathing 
through the gently swaying branches, the imagination might 
easily be prompted to reg^ard this charming locality as the 
Artist's Retreat or Stubio. While passing along the narrow 
ledges overhanging the pool at the base of these falls care is 
needed to keep a firm foothold. 

Upon leaving the Whispering Falls, the attentive observer 
will notice a singular appearance of the ravine, known as 
Glen Chao"3, extending several rods up the stream. The phe- 
nomenon — these fallen rocks, now solidly embedded in the 
ravine — constituting a portion o£ the flooring along which we 
traverse, is visible at various points in a variety of shapes, and 
is faintly traced as far as the Echo Falls. The generally re- 
ceived supposition is, that many centuries ago a great slide 
occurred here occasioning this confused, chaotic appearance. 
These prostrate embankments, portions of them thickly coat- 
ed with heavy and luxuriant mosses, seem evidently to have 
been ruptured and thrown down by the force of the elements, 
Some, however, infer that the effect was produced by an earth- 
quake. In some places, the shattered fragments stand up 
edgewise. A large hemlock, vigorously growing over a section 



28 

of these, perhaps far above a hundred years okl, is quite a 
curiosity. As we continue our ramble, we approach the Glen 
of the Echoes, prominent in which are the 

ECHO FALLS. 

Before reaching or viewing them, the visitor is agreeably 
surprised by the measured sounds of the rumbling waters — 
somethinfif such as mifjht be heard if the stream was contin- 
uously turning the crown-wheel of some flouring mill in the 
distance. To hear them to advantage quiet is necessary, oth- 
erwise the attraction or effect of this singular water-fall 
mainly lost or unnoticed. They are occasioned by the pecu 
liar structure of the Glen and its rocky walls at this point, 
The echoes can generally be heard, but depend somewhat up 
on the condition of the atmosphere, as well as upon the vol 
ume of the stream. While pausing — in the stillness — to hear 
the reverberating sounds of welcome wafted through the silent 
Glen we are reminded of the following lines, written by the 
late song-gifted Bradbury : — 

" Oh, there's music in the waters. 
Playing on their silver flutes. 
In the autumn night "winds sighing 
Softly oyer airy lutes." 

Similar sounds are heard in the Mamuioth Cave, Kentucky. 
This Cascade, on account of its strange peculiarity, attracts 
much attention. The action of the waters in- the ages that 
are past, has resulted in hollowing out one of the deep pools 
in which the upper Glens abound. 

These Falls afford a curious theme for the imagination to 
dwell upon, presenting several questions too great for man to 
answer; among them, how many centuries or ages have the 



29 

incessant waters been at work in wearing out this spacious 
pool in the solid rocks, while their unceasing music day by 
day and night by night has resounded in the rarely broken 
silence of these romantic wilds? The monotonous sounds 
have doubtless been made in a greater or less degree, ever 
since the mammoth landslide or violent convulsion in the Glen 
below, and perhaps ages before. What must have been the 
appearance of the locality both before and immediately after 
tliis occurrence, and at that time how great must have been 
the volume of the waters? Did they then reach tlic ocean 
by their present course, or were they mingled with the broad 
waters of the Susquehanna ? Or did they take some other — 
perhaps an opposite route ? 

Climbing up over the rocks perhaps twelve feet in height on 
the north side of the Cascade of the Echoes, we enter an in- 
teresting locality, known as the Glen of tlie Pools. Many 
of the basins or wells found here are exceedingly beautiful, 
varying greatly in size and shape. Conspicuous among them 
are the two circular ones, a short distance above the Echo 
Falls — the Rival Pools. While looking down into one of 
these through the clear bright water, a striking resemblance 
carved in the solid rock, to the head of some huge animal is 
discovered — an uncommon specimen of natural sculpture. 

The next point of interest is 

THE FAIRIES' CASCADE. 

. At its base is found another of those beautiful pools — 
the deepest in the Glen. The charms of this unpretending 
Cascade are enhanced by the stillness, and by the beauty of 
its situation and surroundinos. Not far above it there are 



30 

several small, singularly shaped pools. One resembles a hel- 
met, another an artist's pallet. The many varieties of mosses 
which are seen in nearly all sections of the Glen, but espe- 
cially in the " Forest Grotto" near this cascade, are much ad- 
mired and viewed in connection with the numerous plants, 
shrubs or flowers every where visible, present interesting sub- 
jects to those who love botanical studies. From tlie Fairies' 
Cascade, our pathway leads along the northern bank of the 
ravine. Soon, we catch a glimpse in the distance of 

THE SUMMIT FALLS. 

Aside from other considerations, these Falls are possessed 
of no slight interest, from the fact that two singular forma- 
tions are found in the rocky bed of the stream near their 
brink. They are familiarly known as " The Petrified. Hats" 
They are certainly worthy the inspection of the curious, and 
contain a pleasant study to the geologist. As many visit the 
Glen without seeing them, it may not be amiss to locate or 
describe them more particularly. They bear' an almost per- 
fect resemblance in shape and appearance to two gentlemens' 
hats, as if sunken or compressed in the bed of the rock, are 
always and co.npletely submerged by the water. The reader 
will find a humorous poetic allusion to them in another por. 
tion of this work. 

And now having passed through the Glen, the vfsitor in 
retracing his steps will peihaps find occasionally some attrac- 
tive view, which escaped his observation in ascending. But, 
whether the visitor decides to return to the valley through the 
Glen or not, he may be amply repaid perhaps, if the ramble 
be continued over the table lands, so as to include the mag- 
nificent view of 



31 

SENECA LAKE FROM THE HIGHLANDS 

of the Glen, which forms one of the many dehghtful land- 
scapes in which Western New York abounds. Viewed in , 
summer or autumn, the valley and hillsides, with the lovely 
Seneca in the distance, present a varied panorama of ex- 
ceeding lovehness — 

" I'tlost beautiful lake ? thou art ever the same, 
As when Seneca braves to thee gave their name," 

This lake in some respects is remarkable. It is vastly deep- 
er tlian any of the inland lakes of the State — is thirty feet 
deeper than Lake Ontario, and more than double the depth of 
Lake Erie. Its waters have been several times partially, but 
never entirely frozen over, since the first white settlements 
were made in this region. As the lake is separated from the 
Glen by a distance of only four miles, many of the charms 
of the latter are enhanced by the proximity of the former. 

Standing upon these table lands, we find that the space of 
the few intervening furlongs " lends enchantment to the view," 
and although town lines may come between, yet the surprised 
beholder emerging from the Glen, who fir^t views the lake 
from this altitude — perhaps four hundred feet above its sur- 
face — forgets for the moment all save the contemplation of 
the romantic scene. Prof. Tovvler of Hobart College, Gene- 
va, not inappropriately classes this Glen, among the " beau- 
ties of Seneca Lake." 

At this point of our progress, let us read a few paragraphs 
from the pen of a talented writer, Chas. Hazard, Esq., upon 
his return from a visit to the Glen and its surroundings. 
After describing the former he says : 



32 

" Reader you can make it complete yourself— study it up at your 
leisure by going to McClure's Glen, and you will be all the better for 
it. We, ourselves, will come out from among these grand beauties 
by way of the hill. Standing on the mountain s summit what a beau- 
tiful panorama is spread before us of the outer world. God never 
smiled on a lovelier valley than this. Look away to the North : See 
stretching beyond, as far as the eye can reach, bewitching Seneca 
sleeps in the afternoon sun — fair as a maiden in summer siesta. The 
declining rays of the long afternoon clothe her bosom with gossamer 
wrappings of gold — as if to hide her pearly charms from the gaze of 
men — while across the swarthier bosom of Mother earth the same 
yellow-hued bands are flung." 

The surrounding country thickly dotted with thrifty farm- 
houses and cultivated fields, affords a delightful prospect con- 
trasted with the picturesque villages which adorn the valley 
below. Steamers gracefully float on the lake, where less 
than a century since the canoes and bateaux of the Senecas 
were seen. Heavily laden trains course through the smiling 
valley, which less than a century since contained a solitary 
Indian settlement, surrounded by the corn-fields and apple- 
orchards* of Queen Catharine. Along the shores of yonder 
lake which 

" Bright reflects the polar star," 
have been heard the war-songs of the Iroquois, wh?re also 
they have wonderingly listened to the teachings of the early 
French and English Missionaries of the cross. There a Kirk- 
land, " traveling upon snow-shoes, and camping at night 
upon and under hemlock boughs," in his journey to the Sen- 

*Few are the remnants of these orchards remaining in the \iciuity, clearly ■ 
prized by the red men, planted and tended with care iiear the' gravcB of their 
ancestors, or beneath whose shade the conquering hosts of Sullivan were 
encamped, on their way to the more remote settlements of the Senecas and 
Oayugas. • 



33 

ocas' Lake in 17G5 — one of tli9 first Protestant Missionaries 
iii Western New York — has endeavored to benefit the unlet- 
tered Senecas or '^ The Great Hill People/'* Upon its 
shores, also, the Latter have given marked attention to the 
lengthy perorations of Jemima Wilkinson, " A Preacheress 
of the Eighteenth Century," or as she was styled by herself 
and followers, " The Universal Friend." The first residence 
of the latter, was upon the western bank of the lake — near 
the present village of Dresden, where she arrived with her 
retinue in 1789. Some of her adherents had preceded her a 
year or two in search of some " fertile unsettled region far 
from tov/ns and cities where the " Universal Friend" and her 
followers, might live undisturbed in peace and plenty in the 
enjoyment of their peculiar religion." Concerning her com- 
ing to the Seneca Lake Region, the following may be found 
in Turner's History : 

"William Hencker, the Pioneer at tlic mouth of the Genesee River, 
then lived at Newtown Point, and helped her on with his teams 
through tlie woods to Catharinestown (Havana). His surviving son, 
Avho accompanied the expedition, well remembers "The Friend," 
her singular dress and singularity as it seemed to him, of a woman 
controlling and directing men in all things appertaining to the jour- 
ney. It seemed to him a " one woman power, " if the form of expres- 

•fclnSeaver's Life of Mary Jemison, othenvise called The White Woman, 
we find ; "the tradition of the Seneca Indians in regard to their origin is, that 
they broke out of the earth from a large mountain at the head of Cauandaigua 
Lake, and that mountain they still venerate as the place of their birth ; thence 
they derive their name "Ge-nnn-de-wah," or Great Hill, and are called "The 
Great Hill People,"whicli is the true definitinn of the word Seneca. 

The great hill j-t the head of Canandaigua lake, from whence they sprung, 
is called Geuundewah, and has for a long time past been the place where the 
Indians of that nation have met in council, to hold great talks, and to offer up 
prayers th the Great Spirit, on account of its ha\-ing been their birth place. * 
* * * To this day(1842) the Indians visit that sacred place to mourn the loss 
of their friends, and to celebrate some rites that are peculiar to themselves.- 
To the knowledge of white people there has been no timber on the great hill, 
since it was first discovered by them, though it lay apparently In a state of 
nature for a great number of years, without cultivation." 

3 



34 

sion raay be changed -with the sex ; yet he gratefully remembers her 
kindness and hospitality when his father's family came throug-h the 
-wilderness, and stopped at her residence, on their way to the Genesee 
River." 

According to Mr Turner, one of the prominent early set- 
tlers of Yates Co., '' insists that the old story of her promis- 
ing to ' walk on the water' is wholly false". An informant 
of the writer, also residing in Schuyler Co., but in his young- 
er days a frequent attendant upon Jemima's exhortations, 
says that many falsehoods were published or circulated con- 
cerning her. 

But, whatever the character of this singular woman, many 
anecdotes, whether true or untrue, have been rehearsed far 
beyond the limits o^the Seneca Lake Region, and the influ- 
ence or tendencies of her peculiar doctrines, as taught in the 
"vilds of Western New York ; either at her residence* to the 
the backwoods pioneers, or to the wondering Senecas on the 
shores of their beautiful lake have not as yet, perhaps, entirely 
lost their force. It is a little singular, also, that within the 
county of Ontario as then organized, which included her resi- 
dence, " The New Jera5alem,"j- or the " promised land," as 
she termed it, Mormonism and Modern Spiritualism have 
since originated. 

Although during the Revolution no battles were fought 

*The fust framed house in Western New York. The gristmill, built by her 
fcftlowevs, on the outlet of Keuka (Crooked) Lake, was, also, the fii'st erected 
within the same Imits. 

tShortly after her primary location was made, two of her followers purchased 
an oriyiual township, in Yates County for Is. Sd. pei; acre, Jemiflaa immediate- 
ly gave it the name of Jerusalem which it still retains. Of this purchase a 
farm of one thousand acres was set apart for the use of Jemima and her more 
immodiatc household. The large dwelling in which her meetings were held 
and in which she resided at the" time of her death— in 1819— is still standing, 
situated a few miles from Branch Port. From the strange history of this sin- 
gular woman, even to the house itself, no slight interest attaches. A portion 
of the time during the late war it was used as a Soldiers'Home. 



35 

npon the Seneca, still the cannonading of Sullivan's Army 
\A'as heard reverberating on the shores, above the '' Painted 
Rocks," or among the shales at Big Stream Point and Lodi, 
bringing terror and desolation to the Indian Settlements in 
the vicinity of the lake, especially at Catharinestown, Peach 
Orchard, Apple Town and Canadesaga (now Geneva). Con- 
sequently items of interest concerning the lake will general- 
ly partake of a more peaceful nature. In the early settle- 
ment of the region, and since, its waves, however, have occa- 
sionally assisted in terminating various engagements. In 
thif^ view, perhaps, the folio v\ ing pleasant reminiscence of this 
romantic lake may not here be inappropriate. The first cele- 
bration of the marriage ceremony amonglhe pioneers of Ovid, 
Seneca Co., was quite interesting. AH of the particulars 
are not at hand ; whether the golden morn, or the silvery 
moonlight furnished the hour; \vhether the joyful party pro- 
ceeded to Catharinestown or Canadesaga*, for the present 
writing is immaterial. One thing was certain, the waves of 
the Seneca sparkled between the bridal party and the near- 
est justice authorized to perform the ceremony. No "Lang- 
don" or "Magee" was in readiness to bear them to their des- 
tination. Viewed in any light, however, the excursion upon 
such an errand could have been regarded only as a pleasant 
undertaking. It is sometimes an embarassing duty for a 
backwoods justice to unite one couple in marriage, but what 
must have been the surprise of the one in question, when be 
beheld not one, but three couples — fair daughters and hardy 



*The latter, perhaps, as at about that time— 1793— it is related that a smaller 
party at Catharinestown visited Tioga Point (now Athens) on horseback, 
iipon a similar errand. 



36 

sons* of Seneca, approaching his residence, as was the case 

upon this occasion. 

In the year 1792, three hundred years after the discovery 
of America, a traveler in describing the country between 
Albany and Niagara, wrote : "Twelve miles west of Cay- 
uga I struck the Canadasaga (Seneca) Lake — no inhabitant 
upon this road.f This lake is the handsomest piece of wa- 
ter I ever beheld." 

Since that time, evidences have not been wanting, that the 
opinion of this traveler was not formed without foundation. 
While speculating upon the future condition of the country 
through which he passed, he introduced the following singu- 
larly prophetic quotation : 

" Here happy millions their own lands possess, 
No tyrant awes them, nor no lords oppress." 

Later, in 1820, a writer incog — Hibernicus — whose let- 
ters were afterwards published in book form, writes from 
Geneva : " I hke the air and scenery of this place so much 
that I cannot leave it without regret. The spacious hotel is 
replete with accommodations. The village hangs over the 
pellucid lake, which stretches like a mighty river towards 
the south, and the eye is lost in tracing its extent." 

*While this work was in press, one of these, Mr. Abraham A. Covert, 
nearly one hundred years of age, a highly respected citizen of Ovid, and one 
of its earliest pioneers, was called away from the scene of his earthly labors. 
The following is taken from the obituary notice published in the Ovid Bee, at 
xhe time of his death : ''Mr. Covert was a most exemplary and excellent man 
in all the relations of life. It has often been remarked of him that ' he had 
not an enemy in the world,' nor has any one ever been heard to say aught 
against him." With the history of the remainiuir bridegrooms, the writer is 
not familiar, their names however were Joseph Wilson and Enoch Stewart. 

tThia traveler could not have taken the route of the old " Seneca Turn- 
pike," afterwards "The State Road," as settlements were then already com- 
menced at Seneca Falls and Waterloo— at the former place by one who had 
shared the trials of White Plains and Yalley Forge, and who afterwards had 
served under the banuers of SuUivau. 



37 

. In another letter dated at Ithaca, he sa3's : " The scenery 
of these lakes is alternately picturesque, beautiful and sub- 
lime. Before the revolution of a century, this country will 
become consecrated to classic inspiration, ' live in descrip- 
tion, and grow green in song.' " Although ixi another letter 
he remarks: '' I have seen bells no where but at the great 
inn at Geneva, and scrapers no where but at the sign of the 
whale in Chitteningo," still these accommodations, together 
with almost untold other ones, have lon^ since been supplied 
throughout what was then denominated as the "Western 
Region," while developments of the " We^t" have extended 
over thousands of square miles and millions of acres, rich in 
resources, towards the setting sun. 

As an item of local interest, it might be remarked that the 
first sloop launched upon the Seneca Lake, was the "Seneca," 
built under the auspices of Col. Charles WiUiamson, in 1796, 
to ply between Geneva and Catharinestown, sailing up the 
Inlet from the head of the lake. Of the people convened 
from all quarters to witness the launch of this vessel, it is 
recorded that "natives Qf every State in the Union, and of 
every nation of Europe, were to be found in the assemblage." 
(Doc. Hist. N. Y., Vol. 2.) Of the steamers* which in later 
years have navigated the lake, the first was "the Seneca 
Chief," Capt. Robert Romney. Her first through trip was 
made July 4, 1828, an" occasion of much rejoicing. This 
boat, built by Seth Huntley, for the Romney Bros., at a later 

*0f these steamers generally, the writer would mention that it appears to 
have been a time-honored observance carefully handed down upon this lake, 
that each succeeding vessel on leaving the stocks should always contain 
among other indispensable requisites, a well furnished and abundant larder. 
Owing to this, the atmosphere of the lake or some other undefined cause, 
travelers usually upon these boats are rarely at a loss for an appetite— never 
for the means of satisfying the same. 



38 

date was remodeled and her name changed to "Geneva." 
She never survived her twentieth anniversary, being destroy- 
ed by fire, July 4, 1848. In those days, furnishing "steam- 
boat wood" was a matter of no httle importance along the 
lake ; but long since, the " hand barrows" so common upon 
the decks of the "Canadesaga" or "Richard Stevens" have 
disappeared from their successors. The fireman \A'ho pa- 
tiently attends to his constant duties in the hold, whether in 
December or July, is no longer annoj^d with sections of 
blackened pines from a burned "summer fallow," or the 
splinters of tlie hemlock, for with the changes of time, the 
Fall Brook coal regions of Pennsylvania furnish a funda- 
mental means of propelling the steamers, which at present 
are the "Elmira," "Magee," "Arnot," "Field," and "Lang- 
don." Besides these, there are several smaller craft, tugs, 
yachts, etc. The first vessel which reached New York City 
from Seneca Lake, was the "Mary and Hannah," of Hector 
Falls, named from the wives of her owners. Upon reaching 
her destination, she attracted no little attention, and was 
presented with a set of sails and colors. 

A PIONEER OF THE VALLEY. 

" But our undaunted pioneers 

Have.conquests more enduring won. 
In scattering the night of years 
And opening forests to the* sun. 

***** 

The storms they met with bosoms' bared, 
And bloodless triumphs bought by toil ; 

The wild beast from his cavern scared. 

And clothed in bloom the virgin soil," — Hosmer. 



39 

One of the first known white navigators who traversed 
either Seneca or Cayuga Lakes was I^Ir. George Mills — in 
1788, one of the earliest pioneers at Havana. 

At the age of fourteen he had served six nrionths in the 
Revolution, " three for his father and three for himself" He 
came to the Seneca Lake valley from Pennsylvania in com- 
pany with Mr. John Pvichardson. Remaining some time at 
Catharinestown, when but two families resided here, they 
proceeded to Cayuga County, where Mr. Mills was the 
first white man who held a plow. In his later years, while 
speaking of this, he described it as sport to see the natives — • 
the Senecas and Cayugas — watch the motions of the plow 
as it bounded out of the ground when caught in the roots of 
the stumps or trees, expressing their admiration by tossing 
up sods and dirt in the air. After residing two 3"ears in 
Cayuga, Mr. Mills returned to Cathaiinestown, locating upon 
a portion of the L'Hommedieu Patent,* on the eastern bank 
of Catharine Creek. Here in his humble cabin of logs, in 
1797, he entertained Louis Phillippe, then the Duke of Or- 
leana In his Indian batteaux he navigated the waters of the 
Seneca long before a sloop, schooner, or perhaps even a 
periauger, had rested upon its surface, to say nothing of the 
commodious steamers which may now be daily seen plowing 



* A tract of 4000 acres, located by Hon. Ezra rHommedieu, of Soiithold, 
iSuflblk Co., N. Y., one of the first 'in the vicinity of Havana. This patent 
embraced portions of the present villages of Havana and Watkins ; the Sul- 
phur Spring on rHommedieu Creek and Aunt Sarah's Falls at the former 
place, the entrance of the Watkins Glen; and a locality known as " Kock Cab- 
in'' on the opposite side of the valley, were included within its limits. Its 
Long Island purchaser, for years a State Senator, was one of the principal 
originators of the movement culminating in the appointment of The Regents 
of the University. The solitary elm upon the beach of the Lake, one of the 
"monuments" in the original survey, near the extensive? Coal Transhipment 
W^orks of the late Hon. John Magee of Watkins. is still standing. This ven- 
erable tree for many years" shaded portions of three counties— Chemung, 
Tompkins and B teubcn. 



40 

its limpid waters. For years liis location, " Mills' Landing," 
and prior to the extension of the Erie Canal \vest of Monte- 
zuma, was the head of inland canal or river navigation. As 
the population grew in numbers, the tonnage of liis vessels 
was increased. With the latter he carried on quite an exten- 
sive commerce between the "West" and the East — "Mills' 
Landing" (Havana) and Schenectady, via. the "Wood Creeh" 
route. At the time of the present writing, April, 1868, the 
"warehouse built and occupied by Mr. M., pi-evious to the 
extension of the Seneca Inlet navigation, is still standing, 
fiiUing into disuse for forwarding purposes after the comple- 
tion of the Chemung Canal. This enterprising and hardy 
pioneer was the first Post Master in this region. The receipts 
of the first quarter were thirty-seven and one-half cents, of 
which the general government received one half. 

In the columns of the Havana Journal at the time of 
the death of Father Mills, as he was familiarly called, in 
Dec. 1858, it is recorded that "he was one of the oldest 
Free Masons in the State, having become a member of that 
fraternity in 1800 ; and from the same paper we quote from 
the resolutions passed by Chemung (now Myrtle) Lodge at 
Havana, " a bright Star from the Constellation of our cher- 
ished Order has fallen, a Pillar in the Arch of our Temple is 
broken, and a Burning Taper in front of our Altar has been 
extinguished." His funeral was attended with Masonic, Mil- 
itary and civic honors. 

On the western side of the valley at our feet, near the 
Montour Cemetery, may be seen 

THE HAVANA FALLS. 

During seasons of high water, when a rushing torrent 



41 

madly dashes from their heights, the scene is magnificently 
grand. At other times the waters are temporarily diverted 
from their natural channel for manufacturing purposes. 

In the MSS. of the late Hon. Thomas Maxwell, of El- 
mira, N. Y., the Indian name of these Falls has been pre- 
served, as will be seen by the following extract. Space for- 
bids copying it entire, as well as other interesting matters 
pertinent to this locality'-, which may be found in Cheney's 
"Historical Sketch of the Chemung Valley, etc.," published 
in the Havana Journal in 1867. 

" In a convei'sation held with Red Jactet, at Bath, in 1828, he in- 
formed me that when a child he was present at a great council-fire 
of the tribes at Shenandoah, in Virginia. The various nations were 
represented by their most distinguished orators, but the greatest 
among them was Logan, a Cayuga, who had removed from his resi- 
dence on the Cayug«» to Shemokin, on the Susquehanna. Red Jack- 
et remarked that he was so highly delighted with Logan's eloquence, 
that he resolved to devote himself to public speaking, and to follow 
Logan as his model. He said that he was in the habit of spealdng 
in the woods where he could find a water-fall, where he exercised his 
voice amid the roaring waters, to acquire the necessary command 
and tone to address large assemblies. One of his favorite resorts for 
this purpose, was the magnificent water-fall at Havana, The name 
of the stream was She-qua-gah, or as he interpreted it, " the place of 
the roaring waters." The water -fall seems to have been his peculiar 
inspiration. In early life the beautiful She-qua-gah, and in his ma- 
ture years the mighty Ne-au-gua-rah, (I give his own pronunciation,) 
were his favorite haunts." 

This celebrated Seneca chieftain was born in 1750, near 
Canoga, Seneca county, N, Y. The following is from one 
of his speeches in 1827 : 

•' It grieves my heart, when I look around and see the situation of 



42 

my people — once united and powerful, now weak and divided. I 
feel sorry for my nation ; when I am gone to the other world, when 
the Great Spirit calls me away, who among my people can take my 
place ? Many long years have I guided the nation. * * * The 
Lord gave his red children their lands : General Washington said 
they were sure, * * * as long as I can stand iu my moccasins 
I will do all I can for my nation." 

Conspicuous among other commodious structures which 
adorn the village of Havana^ as seen from these Highlands, 
is the Montour House, a spacious Hotel erected some 
years since, where ample arrangements are made for the 
comfort and convenience of the traveler or tourist sojourning 
in the locality. Yonder stands 

THE PEOPLES COLLEGE, 

a stately edifice designed to minister popular education to 
the public. It was chartered in 1853, and its chief patron 
for some j^ears was the late Hon. Charles Cook. 

The Institution is now conducted under Masonic auspices, 
in connection with aii Asylum for the benefit of Masonic 
orphans. In aid of this enterprise a Festival and Pic-Nic 
was held at Jones' Wood, New York, Sept. 11th, 1867. In 
the Masonic Ode by William Ross Wallace, written for this 
occasion and delivered by him, we find the following flatter- 
ing mention : 

" JM'ever shone for a location grander scenery, richer sod, 
All imparadised by the blessing of the Orphan's Father — God." 

Ever since the College was first located at Havana, no 
small degree, of interest in its ultimate completion and success 
has been cherished, not only in this immediate vicinity, but 
more or less throughout the Empire State, as well as other 
States of the Union. 



43 

In regard to this enterprise, we quote from the editorial 
columns of a late number of the National Examiner, of New- 
York City, the following ; 

"As will be seen by a reference to the proceedings of the Grand 
I Lodge, that M. "W", Grand Body h^^s recognized and approved the 
efforts that have been made by the bretheren who have labored so 
faithfully in the good cause, and further, have recomended the School 
and Asylum to the Lodges and Fraternity throughout the State. 
New life will be infiised into the movement by this action ; many 
who have been hesitating with a natural fear that the charity was an 
unauthorized one, will now come foward and bend their best energies 
to the work, and when at the next annual communication of the 
jGrrand Lodge the Trustees report, as instructed, the amount of funds 
collected and expended, we feel sure that the Fraternity of Free and 
Accepted Masons throughout the State of New York will'feel proud 
of the Institution that they have taken under their protection." 

In the same paper, also, we notice that the Second Annu- 
al Grand Pic-Nic, in aid of the Masonic School and Asylum 
at Havana, is to be held at Jones' Woods, on Tuesday July 
7th, 1868. 

CATIIARINESTOWN.* 

In the valley a short distance from the entrance of the 
Glen, and near the site of the present village of Havana, was 
the residence of Queen Catharine. Montour, of the Senecas. 
The Indian village Catharinestown — her former home — was 
destro3'ed in 1779, during Sullivan's campaign. Slight tra- 
ces through the valley still exist, along which a portion of 
the Revolutionary army — Sullivan's command numbering 

*The present township of Catharine, Schuyler Coimty — named from Queen 
Catharine Montour— was formed in 1798, as Catharines, from Newtown, then 
in the County of Tioga. From the original territory of Catharines the towns 
of Veteran and Catlin in Chemung, Dix and Montour in Schuyler Coiuities, 
have since been taken. 



44 

five thousand men — marched through the dense wilderness 
mto the heart of the Indian country— the Long House of the 
Iroquois.* This road, once an Indian trail from the Susque- 
hanna to the lakes, passed between the Glen and the Col- 
lege, across the College farm, extending northward on the 
eastern side of the valley between the twin lakes — the Sen- 
eca and the Cayuga. Probably in order to intimidate the 
Indians, after leaving the Chemung river SuUivan's force was 
extended ,or drawn out six miles in their line of march, and 
cannon were fired at nightfall to herald the onward progress 
of the troops. 

The campaign was a short and decisive one, and from its 
results the Iroquois, or Six Nations of New York Indians, 
never recovered. 

It is interesting at this day, however, to reflect that after 
the close of the Revolution, it was the earnest desire of 
Washington, who had planned and sent out expeditions 
against them, that a concihatory policy should be extended 
to the Six Nations, and that a veil might be dravv'n over their 
conduct. In the furtherance of a similar design, several 
Reservations in the Empire State were granted to them by 
Government, which are yet peopled by their descendants. — 
Some of these — particularly of the Senecas — enlisted during 
the late unhappy strife to preserve our I%tional unity. 

One of them. Col. Ely S. Parker, is at present on the staff 
of that General who received the first intelligence of the sur- 
render of a long, protracted and hopeless struggle — "the lost 
cause" — which position he has occupied for several years. 

tThe Iroquois originally consisted of five Nations, but was increased to six 
by the adoption of the Tuscaroras. The latter event was commemorated by 
lianging up a cradle in the General Council House. 



45 

The generally received supposition concerning Queen Cath- 
arine Montour is, that she was a daughter of an early French 
Governor of Canada, taken captive when a child, afterwards 
becoming the wife of a Seneca Chief. She held a prominent 
place in the estimation of her people, occasionally attending" 
various councils at Albany, Philadelphia, and other places. 
After Sullivan's campaign, she resided for some time near 
Niagara. 

At an early day in the history of Western New York, Cath- 
arinestown was a locality of no small importance. For many 
years, it, afterwards called "Catharine's Landing," or "Mills' 
Landing," and previous to the building of the Erie Canal, 
was the head of western inland navigation. The writer hav- 
ing been courteously permitted access to advance sheets of 
the " Historical Sketch of Elmira and the Chemung Valley," 
in Gallatian's City Directory of Elmira for 18G8, puLlished 
by Messrs. Wheeler and Watts of the same place, an extract 
is given as pertinent to the subject. From the portion of it 
refering to the changes in the boundaries or limits of the old 
county of Tioga, in connection with later developments, we 
select ; 

" In the minds of the surviving pioneers and their descendants, 
however, no modern lines of demarkation can separate their pioneer 
fame, nor obliterate cherished memorials or ancient landmarks upon 
the page of truthful history. * * * * * 

From the date of the first infant effort at internal improvement, 
commencing with the issue of the first commission in 1'797, to Phi- 
neas Catlin and Matthew Carpenter, (the latter of whom was succeed- 
ed by John Hendy,) " to lay out the road leading from Catskill 
Landing, upon the Hudson, to Catharinestown, in the county of Ti- 
oga," to the projection and completion of the New York and Erie 



46 

Kail Road, through " the Southern Tier," * * * the pioneer 
struggles and patriotic efforts of their inhabitants have been encour- 
aged and strengthened by a sympathetic and heartfelt mutuality. 
Their hopes and fears have been in unison ; their defeats and victo- 
ries shared in the kindest brotherhood — co-equals in public spirit, 
and in its substantial and enduring rewards." 

Those who would seek more particularly, to locate the 
site of the ancient village of Catharinestown, are refered to 
the fact, that upon the decease of a proniiheit citizen of Ha- 
vana, when the autumnal leaves were falling in 1 S6G, who 
for many years had ardently labored for its prosperity and 
advaaficement, his final resting place was chosen in accord- 
ance with a written request, found ^ifter his decease, that he 
might be buried near " the Queen Catharine mound." In 
fulfilling this request, with other accompanying instructions, 
a portion of his possessions were set apart for bui ial purpo- 
ses, as indicated where to-day he rests after a long and active 
life. 

The visitor who appraoches his silent grave, will' notice, 

that from it may be seen many cherished enterprises — some 
uncompleted, perhaps — in which the heart now stilled for- 
ever, was so long and deeply interested. 

Concerning this spot, we subjoin the following from the 
editorial columns of the Elmira Gazette, a continuation of 
the extract previously given. (See page 32.) ♦ 

"Turning from the Lake's enchanting beauty, to the Talley's 
rivaling splendor of fertility, our eyes fall on a lonely grave oppo- 
site to us in the valley below — the grave ov Charles Cook. He 
who called into being so much of the cultured wealth' and busy en- 
terprise of that thriving village, sleeps there — the long last sleep, 
whence none may awake. A rough wooden fence encloses the grave 



47 

— no monument as yet emblazens his worth. Tis well if it were 
never chaug-ed from what it is now — common, crusty Avorded, (but 
mellow hearted.) Charles Cook, wants no better monument than what 
Havana is. Let her people remember him ever." 



Reader, the more descriptive part of our little volume is 
nearly completed. Should you ever visit the Glen, 3'ou will 
find much to examine and admire, of which no mention is. 
made in these pages. And after you have explored its here- 
tofore hidden mysteries, remember that other delightful glens 
and cascades abound in the locality. They are well worthy 
of an inspection. 

Among otiier points of attraction in this valley, a short 
distance south of the Glen is a charming Cascade* — Sulli- 
van's Falls. It was visited in 1779 by "Cao^ officers of Sulli- 
van's expedition, and is mentioned in the records of that 
campaign. Some of its features are essentially different from 
any of the neighboring cascades. 

Prominent among the Glens in this vicinity is the one at 
Watkins,-]- which has^already obtained a wide notoriety, and 
is annually- visited by thousands. The banks of the beauti- 
ful Seneca are also adorned with several fine cascades, and 
abound in picturesque scenery. Among these watersfalls 
and which'may be ¥een1r5Tn["the decks of the steamers, may 
be mentioned particularly those at Hector Falls, Rock Stream, 
Big Stream and Lodi. At certain seasons of the year, and 



*Near the residence of T. Appolcon Cheney, LL.D., a well-known writer, 
who has made many valuable researches and reports respecting the early 
history and antiquities of Western New York. 

+An interesting Hand Book for the use of Tourists visiting the Glen at 
Watkins, l>y George M. Ellwood, Esq., contains much that is 'serviceable to 
its visitors. 



48 

especially during heavy freshets, they present magiiifieeBt 
views. 

The glens and cascades near the head of Seneca Lake, 
in some respects have a united or common interest, no two 
of them being ahke, each adds to the attraction of the oth- 
ers. Taken together, they form a circle of natural beauties 
that are seldom surpassed. 

Less than a day's pleasant drive from the Glen at Havana, 
brings the visitor to Enfield Falls, or to the Falls of Taug- 
hannock, near Goodwin's Point on Cayuga Lake,* celebrated 

r their great height and the picturesque embellishments of 
tbeir rural surroundings. 

Besides other summer resorts, Cayuta Lake, a small sheet 
of water in the town of Catharine, a few miles from Havana, 
is much visited by pic-nic and fishing parties. It is pleas- 
antly situated, and is rapidly growing into public favor. 

In Schuyler County, also, two other small lakes may be 
found near its western borders, in the town of. Tyrone, which 
afford varied attractions to the visitor. These three coquet- 
ish minor lakes, from their situation, flow into the Susque- 
hanna River; while the majority of the larger ly,kes in the 
State are tributary to the St. Lawrence. 

N^t far from Little Lake, in Tyrone, is the famous Crystal 
Sprii3g,f in Barrington, Yates Co., which attracts many vis- 
itors. 



*The village of Ithaca at the head of this lake is also much noted for^ts 
enchanting, varied, and beautiful scenery. 

t This spring or fountain in which nature and art in one sense might both 
be considered as stockholders, yvas discovered while sinking a well during 
the oil excitement a few years since. At the depth of forty three feet the 
waters burst forth from their subterranean caverns, and have since continued 
uninterruptedly te flow ; for them valuable medicinal qualities are claimed. 
The nearest Eail Koad Station to Crystal Spring is at Starkey. 



49 



P EscRiPTiYE Poems. 



McOLUEE'S GLEN. 

[1857.] 



BY JOHN B. LOOK. 



IIov/ wild the scene ! How wond'rons wild ! 
Here Nature lived when but an infant child, 
And here her leisure hours devoted all 
To play strange freaks with this terrestrial ball : 
One hour she lifted rock on rock most high. 
Another, planned a flower to please the eye ; — 
A mason quite, and yet a painter good : 
She piled the rocks o'er which to leap the flood. 
And then these flowers, with richly painted hue, 
(None lovelier graced a bank or richer grew,) 
All, all were touched with that Inventive hand. 
As if this art was at its sole command. 
This moss on which we re^st, — oh, beauteous green- 
A carpet quite ; — none richer e'er was seen ; — 
These trees ! ah, how they shield us from the rays 
Of burning heat that come in burning days. 
'Tis all complete : — the brooklet, rock and bow'r, 
The carpet green, the shrub and scented flow'r, 
All, all commingle in this grandeur wildf— 
By Nature reared when Nature was a child. 



We'll rest ns here ; and now behold the scene : 
The rocks are rough and dark the deep ravine ; 
4 



50 



The sunllglit lingers never where we tread, 

And cheering rays ne'er find a welcome bed ; 

But lo, we hear the water's awful fall, 

And feel the spray hie up the dampened wall; 

Here, at " high twelve" the wand'rer finds it night, 

And, though the sky is clear and heaven is bright, 

lie dwells amid a never ending storm, 

Without one beam his chilly limbs to warm ; 

He sees the drops that leap from yonder hight, 

And in the darkness deems them orbs of liglit ; 

But scarce they live ere they are doomed to die, 

And coldly pass us as they onward fij. 

How much like time, how much like man they arc : 

A moment here, then gone, we know not whore. 

But so it is with time, with men, with all 

The fleeting things on this terrestrial ball ; 

A moment given, as quick as thought 'tis fled , — 

To day we live, to-morrow will be dead; 

To day we're happy with the blessings given, 

To-morrow '11 find us in the courts of Heaven. 

'Tis fchange man loves, and Nature placed it here ; 
Just look below and see tke sunlight clear ; 
A rainbow now doth overhang the vault, 
"Where quick the rushing waters make a halt. 
Ah, " bow of promise," welcome to pur sight. 
Thrice welcome, rainbow, to our new-born light ; — 
Too long we tarried in that drear abode, 
"Where shadows die along the watery road. 
"Where every crackling bush doth tlirill the heart. 
And day and night ne'er meet and never part. 
Good night, then darkness, and warm welcome day, 
"With varied bow, caused by the leaping spray ; 
Here once again we find the wild-flower's bed : 
Fresh blooming roses, with their petals spread, 



51 



Tlie blue Viola nestle as tliey 're prest, 

And woodland-songsters sing tlie gods to rest, 

While ev'ry drop loolcs like a world on fire. 

Hung up in space for man alone t' admire. 

Ah, Robert Burns, you 'd written not of Doon, 

Had you here reveled in the month of June, 

Had you perchance, this lovely dell espied, 

With Highland Mary by your throbbing side, 

The banks of Doon would ne'er have raised your pen, 

' Til you 'd exhausted this — McClupwE 's Glen. 

But here we are, now at our journey's end, 

These awful crags no mortal can descend ; 

The waters plunge some hundred feet, or more. 

And frothy madness hugs the rock-bound shore ; 

The trees around are drench'd as in a show'r, 

■ So leaps the misty liquid up the tow'r ; 
So long the rocks have wept, perhaps in fear, 
That all are furrowed with a brineless tear, 

'Til every flower, in imitation true, 

Has learned to weep an innocent adieu. 

No longer gaze, our hearts with sadness fill ; — 

Let's trace our windiiig course up yonder hill ; 

Let's mount the brow with steady step and firm. 
For day 's declining, night will soon return ; 
And who would tarry mid these awful- wilds, 
Where howling waters echo forth for miles. 
And hear sweet daylight, dying in the west. 
Proclaiming, man, here take your nightly rest ! 
Then, as we'd hasten from the owls and bats, 
We'll rest us not 'till safe on yonder fiats. 
And there, at evening, view the last grand leap, 
Of tired waters o 'er the rock bound steep. 

The watery moon, with face half hid from view 
And beams just dampened with the falling dew, 



52 



Now smiling, looked o'er hilltops far away. 

As if to see how Sei had spent the day, . 

Then o'er the mead she kindly threw a sl^en. 

And dropped the mountain veil that hung between. 

And in full glory gazed upon our earth, — 

A full-grown moon, that seem'd full grown at birth. 

Now sit we on a flow'r-deck'd, moss-grown, knoll. 

And view the trembling waters, as they roll 

From off a plane inclined, with rapid force, 

A& if before they'd traveled o'er the course 

And motion wished, to leap from yonder brow, 

"Where stars are mirrored and are tumbling now. 

You've leaped your last, the hazard race is o'er, 

^he Glen's behind, the pebbly brook before ; 

Here moon-kiss'd rosebuds bend them o'er your breast. 

And new-born zephyrs fan you into rest. 

— Our thoughts run backward as the moon runs high. 
We lose these scenes for those long since gone by ; 
Young Indians here were wont to skip and play. 
And court their lovers at the death of day^ 
"When all was quiet, save th6 wigwam smoke, 
And mighty forests felt no white man's stroke. 
Young red men rambled in this lone retreat. 
And whispered love in native accents sweet; 
Here Jiative lips have pressed on native brows ; 
Here love exchanged her siipple, earnest vows ; 
Heri6 the " Great Spirit," through their noble "Chief," 
Hath bound the Squaw and Indian in one sheaf; 
■Here death hath been, and yet we see no stones 
To mark the resting of their ancient bones ; 
A nation slept within this loved aoode. 
Ere white man's axe had marked the traveled road ; — 
Here once a village, of no small renown, 
An^Indian village, — ^lovely wigwam town. 



53 



Was seen by men who sought to kill their " Braves," 

And drive the weak from Seneca's blue waves ; 

Here, too. Queen Catharine bore a noble part,' — 

She loved the red man as she loved her heart, — 

Montour her name, a name forever dear 

To those familiar with her bold career. 

But, hold ! on yonder mound we mark a trace 

Of some who tarried with this exiled race ; 

Some kindly hand hath reared a marble white. 

That yonder glistens in the moon-beams bright. 

Sleep on, sleep on ; oh, red man, soundly sleep ; 

For should you wake, 'twould only be to weep ; 

The place jon'd know not — Brothers all are gone , — 

They lingered, sighed, and left us one by one. 

The iron horse — you know not what I mean — 

A thing of life now flies the hills between ; 

The merry boatmen sing their midnight song. 

On the broad " ditch" that lies your grave along. 

A little way, Havana rears its head. 

Where fifteen hundred Avhite men daily tread ; 

Erom here we gaze, and lo, yon lofty spire. 

In moon-beams, looks like monument on fire ; 

A thousand lights in thousand dwellings burn,— © 

You'd call them wigwams, — that's the Indian term ; — 

The mills ai*e sounding — what know you of Mills ? 

Nought save one George, who lives just o'er tho hills; 

A man of ninety, ninety two, or more. 

Who oft has told us tales of days of yore ; 

You scarce would know him, Indian, should you rise. 

The " Master" soon will call him to the skies ; 

Old age has robbed him of his youthful bloom, 

And soon, like you, he'll sleep within the tomb. 

But, we must leave you — no, we'll not go yet, — 

We've lingered long, our locks are getting wet ; 



54 



But ere we go, there's one tiling more we'll tell : 
Soon cm yon rise you'll hear a College bell; 
The " People's College" there will lift its dome. 
Where books and labor '11 find an equal home. 

K'ow, fare-thee-well ; sleep on, and take thy rest, — 
We'll to our home — 'tis poor, but there we're blest, 
And as we go we'll mind us of ^^our race, 
By seeing Catharine's name in sightly place , — 
Charles Cook has reared a monument — 'tis well , — 
Its name "Moxtouu." — now Indian, fare-thc.e-welL 



THE INDIAIT BTJSIAL-GEOUITD. 

-'- Near Havana, N. Y. 



BY II. C, WINTON. 



While on this height I stand and gaze 
O'er distant hills and plains around. 

One spot I view — a sacred place — 
The Indian Burial-Ground. 

That spot which the chieftians of yore- 
Brave men, who have gone to decay- 
Most fondly regarded with awe, 
In years that are faded away. 

How little the Indian thought 

That the tribes which Catharine led, 

So soon would be scattered for aye. 
To join their companions — the dead, 

Por the red man truly believed. 

When the war-cry ceased to resound^ 

Manitou would give him a home. 
Beyond the lone Burial-Ground. 



55 

And he thought, perhaps, that in tune, 
These hills he hftd lumted around, 

A spacious hunting-iield would form, 
Encircling" the Burial-G round. 

In these happy realms he would roam ; 

In these happy realms he Avould stay ; 
No sorrow or trouble should com^ ; 

No clouds should obscure endlatss day. 

It was here his fathers were laid, 
And often he viewed yonder mcfiind, 

Where the red men slumber in dust, — 
The Indian Burial-Ground. 

Then long let their memory live, 

Let their resting j^lace ever be found, 

Of the ones who sleep 'neatli the sod, 
Within that lone Burial-Ground. 



THE BEIDE OP THE SEUEOA. 



A ROMANCE OF THE GLEN. 



BY JOIIX WILSOX. 



'Tis night — the moon is in the sky — 
Low zephyrs through the woodlands sigh ; 
The autumn foliage, broAvn and sear, 
Tells of the quickly passing year ; 
No sounds disturb the still repose 
Which reigns o'er hill, and vale, and close, 



*A nom deplume of an attache of the Havana Joitrnal. Since his impromp- 
tu articles*, prose as well as poetry, appeared in the Journal, he has returned 
to "metric En,e;land," the land ot'his birth. In "setting up," the "case" and 
She "composing stick" were the only MSS, he used. 



50 

Save the low murmurs of tins Glctf, 
As leaps its stream from cliff to fen, 
List ! whence that footstep in the dell — 
So light, so stealthily it fell. 
It seemed as if a spirit would 
Enjoy the sjdvan solitude. 
Again it ftills, more loud and clear. 
As to yon^Dower it draweth near. 

***** 

This hour Waubuno seeks his bride, 
Thia night he ling'reth at her side, — 
O'er hill and flood, o'er plain and vale. 
Hath he pursued a winding trail ; 
Lest some of stern Arouski's braves, 
Who dwell by Seneca's dark waves. 
Should meet him in his secret way, 
Ere the red East proclahns the day, 

"Within that leafy, emerald bower, 
"Waoniasea waits the hour 
"Which to her willing ear will tell 
That tale, whose words she loveth well. 
At eve she left the wigwam's shade. 
And to this dell her footsteps strayed, — 
This bower for lovers' converse made, 
Shielded by woodland and cascade. 
Her father's hate she knoweth well. 
Upon her lover it well nigh fell, 
"When in the thickest of the strife, 
Arouski sought Waubuno's life. 
And would have slain him, but the day 
"Was won by the adverse array ; 
And, on that field her father swore 
A deathless hate to him who wore 
The plume, red with his warrior's gore. 



57 



Taken, by night, in ambush daj-k, 
"Waubuno was the arroVs mark. 
Carried before his ruthless foe, 
The morrow would his death-song know. 
That morning came — to him tlie last — '■ 
No more to tread the woodlands vast, 
Would Waubuno await the day. 
Or share th' exciting chase or fray. 
^Thc hour drew near, the warriors round 
Assembled on the fatal ground — 
The chieftain, nerved to meet his fate, 
Stood, — calm, unmoved, erect, sedate. 

— But, ere the unerring blow was given — 
Ere Waubuno's red crest was riven — 
Waoniasea stood between 
Him and the tomahawk's dark sheen. 
The arm was lower'd that aimed the blow. 
Arouski's further will to know. 
His daughter to her father clung, 
Her lover's life in balance hung, — 

Arouski's stoic soul was brave. 
His highest aim was glory's grave : 
Yet had love's tendrils round that soul 
Found genial soil and held control. 
Thus when his daughter's tears implored, 
He bent to her his soul adored : 
Waubuno's forfeit life was spared ! 
His pledge the ransom'd warrior gave, 
No more to wield the bow or glaive 
In strife, against Arouski's band. 
Or tread the Seneca's green strand. 

The chief departed — far away 
His nation and his wigwam lay. 



58 

But, ere lie leffc, Arouski's daughter 

With skiff had cross'd the lake's blue water, 

And joined Walibuno in the fen 

"Which laj^ between the lake and Glen. 

And there another pledge was made — 

What recks it what was thought or said ? 

What promise giyen — what Avords untold, 

Affection there did first unfold ? 

* *' -* * * * 

The silver moon has mounted high, 
A breeze has risen — o'er the sk}'- 
The fleecy clouds begin to fly. 
Telling the hour of morning nigh. 
— Lo ! on the lake's expanse of blue. 
Why, at this hour, the birch canoe ? 

This night Waoniasea meets 
Her lover in the wood's retreats — 
Those deep retreats of vale and dell, 
Which suit Love's oft-told tale so well. 
— And hither hath Wabuno come 
To bear Arouski's daughter home : 
And that her skiff upon the lake. 
Fast nearing, now, the Glen's green brake. 
***** 

"W^aoniasea ! if thy flight 
Far from thy father's home this night, 
Brings to thy bosom one regret — 
Turn back — thy footstei^s from me set ; 
Twice in this Glen, in secret, we 
Have met, and proved Love's constancy. 
For thee I braved thy father's ire ; 
Now, 'gainst my life his braves conspire ; 
He heard and knows my love for thee ; 
Ho knows my power could set thee free) 



59 



If, all unmindful of ray vow. ^ 

I led my warriors 'gainst l^im now. 
But, if thou art my prize, 'twill be 
Throug-li naught save bloodless victory. 
No foe of his I now can be — 
My life I owe to him, through thee. 
And homeward would I rather go 
Without thee, than that thou shouldst know 
Those pangs which from Repentance flow. 
Again I'll track my lonely way 
To where my waiting warriors lay, 
Now, say what Fate doth bid thee tell — 
*I go !' or that dread word 'Farewell !' " 

•■'Nay, my Waubuno ! — ^never ! — never !^— 
Can the blest ties which bind us, sever ! 
Not though my father's braves appear. 
From out each dell and valley sear, 
Would I my recent steps retrace, 
Or let my love to fear give place. 
By the words we here have spoken — 
By that promise, still unbroken — 
By the love thou made me know, 
Hear me — hear me — 'I will go 1' 
Little thou know'st of woman's love. 
To think that fear can shake or move 

The trust within her heart 

Yes — I go — with thee I go — 
To scenes of joy, or scenes of woe; 
Fortune's sky or dark or fair, 
All thy griefs and joys to share — 
Here, beside the cascade's flow, 
List me once again — I go !" 

* * * * • * 



60 

A canoe is on the shore, 

Its paddles idle lay ; 
She who owned it, now no more 

In that frail light skiff will stray 
The Seneca's waters o'er, 

Or around its woodland bay ! 



Gray tints are in the Eastern sky — 
Tints which proclaim the sun is nigh : 
The lovers onward wend their way 
To where Waubuno's warriors lay. 
Two hours yet — and he will gain 
The thickets of yon woody plain : 
There, all secure from boding fears, 
His bride may stay her flowing tears. 
Two short-lived hours — then the day 
Can shine upon them as it may ; 
For, safe amid his warrior band, 
Waubuno dreads no hostile hand. 

Hark ! whence that sound which echoes o'er 
Seneca's now distant shore ? 
Comes it from Arouski's band ? 
Yes I — his braves now wield the brand ! 
Nearer comes the angry sound, 
Borne along the valley ground ; 
Their chief, Arouski, draweth nigh, 
Eager th' expectant foe to spy : 
On wings of Love and Hate he flies, 
A victim, and his child, the prize ! 
■« * * * * 

Stern Arouski, in the fray. 

When he raises high the brand, 

No signs of mercy doth betray ; 
All must die beneath his hand. 



61 

To list tlie supplicating voice, 
Or stay of life the ebbing sand, 
• Never was the chieftain's choice. 

****** 

Within a dell, where streaks of day 
Peer'd through the leaflet's tinted spray, 
"Waubuno, wounded — dying — lay ! 
Arouski's dart had pierced his breast ; 
And now he wished death as a rest : 
'Twould ease the pangs of mortal pain, 
'Twas near — his life-blood dyed the plain. 

— Waoniasea o'er him bending, 
"With unavailing care was tending 
The wound her father's shaft had ope'd — 
And, as she fondly, vainly cop'd 
To staunch her lover's welling wound, 
»She o'er his well-loved form had swooned 
But now Arouaki reached the scene. 
And peer'd the quivering leaves between- 
Then, rushing where his victim lay, 
He tore his daughter's form away : 
And to the dying chieftain said : 

"Waubuno, die ! My daughter's ^m 
Once saved ^ee from impending harm : 
And this return thou mad'st to-day — 
Thou wiled her from her home away : 
See ! now I claim thy dying breath ; 
I triumph o'er thee in thy death !" 
***** 

Waoniasea watched the sight, 
"Which closed her lover's soul in night ; 
Then, in the sternness of despair. 
Had vanished every sign of c«re. 



62 



A strange, weird loos she gave lier sire, 
Then viewed the victim of his ire — 
And said, in tones which ne'er misgive — 
"Naught is now left for ichich to live" 

Arouski's band take up the trail 
"Wliich downward leads nnto the vale, 
Where the Glen looks upon the bay 
The warriors left at early day. 



Where rolls the torrent down the Glen, 
There is a grove — -'once 'twas a fen. 
Above that fen there was a dell — 
Waoniasea loved it well. 
Here, her Waubiino once had roved 
Alone with her his spirit loved. 
Here at eve, again she si rayed, 
While zepliyrs through the woodlands played. 
— Lo ! amid the evening gloom, 
She hath found Waubuno's plume ! 
***** 

The soul bereft of Faith and joy, 

Eecks not of Hope or Fear : 
Its instincts prompt it to destroy 
The spark that ling'reth here — 
Bereft of bliss, it seeks for death : 

Sejeks it within the lonely cave — 
O'er the steep cliff, 'neath the deep wave ! 
***** 
"High is the ciifF — yon wave that rolls 
Can bring a rest to weary souls ! 
Kot darker is its eddying tide 
Than woes which through my bosom glide. 
— Ha ! see his plume ! I know it well — 
One moon ago, just here it fell, 



63 



Wnen, o'er this ledge, ere yet 'twas day, 

He bore me in his arms away. 

Ilark ! whence that voice which thrills my son] ?— 

Its Rccents doth my breast condole ! 

'Tis he ! come from the Spirit-land. 

Lo ! no^v I see him wave his hand ! 

List ! now again I hear it — "Come !" 

—This rock is steep— yet it can close 

The record of my withering \voes. 

In the dark stream which 'neath it flows. 

lie calls ! I'll tempt the flood below : 
My loved "NVaubuno !— watch— I go !" 
* • *- *- -« * 

There upon the gurgling stream, ■ 

Floats a gory form : 
It held a troubled spirit, 

It thrilled to Passion's storm. 

Is the blackness of this water 
As dark-hued as her soul, 
\. YVlio thus dishonored Heaven 
Beneath the torrent's roll ? 

Speak lightly ! ye who blame her : 

Unknown to her the charm 
"Which Faith brings to the bosom 

When the Evil One would harm. . 

'Twas the depth of grief wliich slew her : 

Of mutual lo^e the dearth, — 
'Twas a woman's deep affection — 

The purest— best — on earth. | 

***** 
Remorse will seize thee, guilty Chief ! 
f:hy latest hours are doomed to grief; 



64 



Grief, and the demon of Despair, 
Shall yet thy heart-striugs madly tear : 
By thee thy daughter's hopes were crushed, 
Her love — her truth — her spirit hushed, 
111 dark Oblivion's vale — 
Waubuno's spectral ghost hath moved 
Before thee, wheresoe'er thou roved : 
But when the sable form of Death 
Requires of thee thy ling'ring breath — 
Thy daughter's shapeless corse shall be 
Chief phantom of thy misery ! 



There's a legend that, at midnight hour, 
Within the Glen, around the Fall, 
"And what was once her bower, 
TVaoniasea and her lover, 
In spirit-form are seen to hover : 
And o'er the eddying streamlet's hum, 
Floats through the air one soft word — "Come T 
While high above the torrent's flow 
Are heard the answering words — "/ go /" 
Journal Office, Aug. 28, 186Y. 



TO SENEGA LAKE. 



On thy fair bosom, silver lake, 
The wild swan spreads his snowy sail, 

And round his breast the ripples break, 
As down he bears before the gale. 

On thy fair bosom, waveless stream, 
The dipping paddle echoes far, 

And flakes in the moonlight gleam, 
And bright reflects the polar star. 



65 



The waves along thy pebbly shore, 

As blows the north wind, heave their fpam, 

And curl around the dashing oar, 
As kte the boatman hies him home. 

How sweet, at set of sun, to view 
Thy golden mirror spreading wide ; 

And see the mist of mantling blue, 
Float round the distant mountain's side. 

At midnight hour, as shines the moon, 
A sheet of silver spreads below ; 

And swift she cuts, at highest noon, 

Light clouds, like Avreaths of purest snow. 

On thy fair bosom, silver lake, 

O ! I could ever sweep the oar. 
When early birds at morning wake, 

And eveuins: tells us toil is o'er. 



THE TWO EATS, 
IN THE HAVANA GLEN. 



BT JOHX WILSON. 



Two veritable hats* are here, 
As very plainly does appear : 
H§re have they been for many a year. 
And %vill be for many more : 



* The two objects known as " The Hats", and which are situated in yie bed 
of the stream in the upper portion of the Glen, are owing to the geological for- 
mation of the rock. At a remote period, a " kem,'" or piece of stone, becom- 
ing- embedded in the mass, while in a state of fusion, and, subsequently, the 
rock dividing into two portions, the enclosed kern was broken— thus caasiug 
the phenomena of •' the hats." Similar objects are found in the Hartz moun- 
■tains, in Germany. J. W. 

5 



66 

K"o foolisli ■wig'lij^woiild cheat tlie roclr, 
By cutting them from out the block, 
Carrying them oft at " midnight clock" 
T' increase his wardrobe's store. 

But, how came this to be their station, 
Is food for deep investigation : 
What made this rock their situation, 

Can any tell ? 
Perhaps some evil spirit here, 
Has counsell'd with a brother seer, 
How they could hurt the streamlet clear, 

And on it lay a spell — 

'Tv/ould damp a woman's curiosity 
To seek out the precise velocity; 
And tell the depth of animosity, 

With which the fiends came down. 
Doubtless they " lit" upon their heads, 
Which fastened in these rocky beds. 
Were burned up by the sun that sheds 
Its rays here at high noon : 

Or, mayhap, here two " callants" fought, 
By purest hatred hither brought ; 
And, having mutual mischief wrought, 

Like the Kilkenny Cats, — 
Fighting and fighting, with divers wails, 
And making many bloody trails. 
Then, in default of genuine tails, 
Hereon did leave their JIafs. 

But, yet, the truth appears to be. 
This is a natural mystery — 
One of the many which we see 

Spread all around this Glen ; 



67 

And, like all things beneath the sun, 
Once known the wonderment is done ; 
Once guaged, the mystery has flown — 
It puzzles but till — then. 



OATHAEmE MOIirTOUE. 

THE QUEEN OF THE SENEGAS. 



BY H. C. WINTON. 



"The prondept of all in the hostile array, 
"Was young Thurenserah, the Dawn of the Day ; 
The League's Atotarho ! the holdest in fight ; 
The wisest in council ! in form the most bright : 
The fleetest of foot, the most skilled in the chase, 
The glory and boast of the Iroquois race.— Street. 

Queen Catharine formerly resided near McClure's Glen, at Cath- 
arinestown (now Havana, N. Y.) Her village was destroyed at the 
time of Sullivan's Expedition, in 1779. 

Long before the Indians had entirely abandoned their favorite 
hunting-grounds in this region, the hardy pioneers had commenced 
their settlements. 

One of these — probably the first white navigator of Seneca Lake 
— George Mills, Esq. — was no stranger to the Senecas or Cayugas. 
His meetings with Catharine Montour and her people were always 
friendly. Louis Phillippe, while traveling in North America, an 
exile, was the guest of this pioneer, in his humble log cabin. 

At the ceremony of laying the corner stone of The Peoples Col- 
lege, Mr. Mills, although at the advanced age of ninety -four, took an 
active part, carrying a volume of the Scriptures, while walking in 
the procession, surrounded by assembled thousands. When he first 
came to Havana, he found but two families residing in the valley at 
the head of Seneca Lake. Their neighbors were at Elmira, the 
Friend's Settlement, and Geneva ; at the latter place there was but 
one log cabin, containing five persons. This pioneer, at the early 
age of fourteen, had served iu the Revolution. 



68 

Much concerning Catharine Montour is shrouded in mysterj^ 
but the story of her life, connected with that of her people, the 
Swan-ne-hoh-honts, or Senecas, one of the Six IS'ations of New York 
Indians, can never fail to be an interesting one. 

The Iroquois, or Six Nations, embraced in their domain the beautif- 
ful lakes and streams of the Empire State, many of which still retain 
their simple aboriginal names. 

While contemplating the history of this singular race, we must 
admit, in the language of Street, that we find " one more melancholy 
instance of a once powerful and happy people entirely disappearing 
from the face of the earth ;" and also to quote from the writings of 
Stone, the eminent Indian Biographer, "the Indians haye had no 
writer to relate their own side of the story."' 

At some time, kind reader, perchance you heve been 
To a wild rocky dell, now called McClure's Glen, 
"With its caverns and cliffs, and o'erhanging trees, 
"Whose branches keep time with the sweet summer breeze ; 
To approach and behold the varied delights, 
Here, with exquisite charms, all Nature invites ; 
In silence we gaze where the wild waters foam. 
Enraptured in thought as enchanted we roam. 
— Not far from tliis spot, as traditions relate, 
, The red men once held their rude councils of state ; 
Though simple their habits, their friendships were pure. 
And the queen of the tribe, was Catherine Montour ; 
And when Sullivan came, as conquerors come, 
"With the shrill-sounding fife, and roll of the drum : 
'Twas here she then dwelt — fair queen of the valley — 
The pride of the red men who round her would rally. 

The smoke of her wigwam no longer is seen. 
And the war dance is held no more on the green : 
The hills with wild war cries no longer resound ; 
Her braves are now sleeping in yon grassy mound ; 
And of that lone spot a few thoughts I would wiite— 



69 

So help me, my mnse, in the words I indite ; 

For the red men rest near the pale faces there, 

With Ilali-wen-ne-joh, now, they're free from earth's care : 

And there in the morn, Jis-ko-ko doth sing 

Sweet carolling notes, foreteller of Spring ; 

While Seneca Inlet, still, murmuring stream, 

Flows gently along ; it disturbs not the dream 

Of those who there sleep, near the green, grassy shore. 

Departed from earth, to return — nevermore. 

But, now of the red men few traces remain, 
Who so freely once roamed o'er hill and o'er plain ; 
And all who here knew them are passing away. 
For ev'rything earthly soon goes to decay, — 
Like the frost of the morn, 'neatli autumn's bright sun, 
Our brief lives are ended when scarce they've begun ; 
But, 3'et, there was one — can you guess who I mean ? 
But a few years since was his aged form seen : 
Light were his footsteps as he came from the hill's, 
For most hearty and hale was Father Geokge Mills. 
The sons of the woods he had known long and well, 
And of former days many tales he could tell, 
Of vrild hunting sports, in happy days of yore. 
When the streams were dipt with the Indian's oar. 

Some who read these lines, perhaps may remember,. 
A beautiful day, ere the ides of September — 
Eighteen fifty-eight, I believe, was the year, 
When such a vast concourse of people were here 
To -witness a scene most impressive and grand ; 
There came many wise men from over the land ; 
For the corner stone of a College was laid, 
While thousands of people around were arrayed. 
In the pioneer's hands the dearly prized page- 
It had cheered him in youth, and solaced in age ; 



70 



Tho' whitened Ms locks, and tbo' worn was liis frame, 

lu the eT'ning of life, naught caring for fame, 

A tear in his eye, as he marched in the line, 

He was thinking, perhaps, of a bj^gone time. 

When he came, in his youth, to tills beautiful vale 

"With no road or path, save the Seneca's trail ; 

When few were the people, the dwellings but two, 

From the river Chemung, to yon lake of blue ; 

When the bear and the wolf in the forest held sway ; 

No wonder that he should have wept on that day ; 

Or, perhaps he thought of the one who had shared 

His early life's care — she taken, he spared — 

The light of his home in the wilderness free, 

A daughter of Erin, svv'eet Isle of the Sea. 

But noAV the " Master" of all, hath called him on high. 

For, Free and Accepted, his time came to die. 

Hereabouts he dwelt, some threescore years or more. 

Gladly welcoming all who came to his door : 

And once to his cabin he welcomed a king, — 

A prince of proud France — 'twas an uncommon thing. 

But, still, in the distance yon fair lake remains, 
Sweet mem'rys recalling of Percival's strains ; 
And many love tales have been echoed, I ween. 
O'er its light sparkling waves of glittering sheen ; 
For its tranquil bosom of clear azure blue. 
Often has borne the young warrior's canoe. 
— Most beautiful lake ! thou art ever the same. 
As when Seneca braves to thee gave their name ; 
May thy crystal waters, so placid and pure, 
Keep long in remembrance the name of Montour ; 
For here the Great Spirit, for purposes ynse, 
First gave to her people a home 'neath the skies : 
'Mid the glens and cascades, which so thickly abound. 
Where the student of Nature so often is foimd. 



71 

K^ow there are some things we would ask thee, fair queen, 

Couldst thou but return, to the valley's bright green; 

And besides, I would know — if thou canst me tell — 

In the bright Spirit Land, with thy tribe, is it well ? 

And then, to recede from that echoless shore, 

To the regions of earth returning once more, 

Perhaps you might tell us if time has much changed 

The hills and the plains where your warriors ranged ; 

For the wild deer is seen no more on the hill. 

And long has the horn of the hunter b^en still ; 

Through the valley is laid a strong iron band. 

O'er which the swift engine flies fast through the land. 

Now here is one thing many people would learn, 

Tradition ha^brought; the tale shall we spurn? 

Tliat where yonder vast marsh now flames ev'ry year ; 

AVell — I imidd that one of your chieftains were here, 

Perhaps he might tell us where'bouts was the spring, 

That mlt might be madS, for gTeat riches 'twould bring ; 

And tJiis was a secret — not many knew where, 

This Indian treasure was guarded with care ; 

And besides, there are some who gladly would know. 

If "rock oil" abounds in the regions below; 

For as strange as it seems — I will be quite plain — 

Many men here'bouts, have had " oil on the brain." 

And of what were the teeth* — what aniinal rare, 

That were found in the vale ? and whence came they there ? 

— Near the wild wooded glen, where bloom the wild flowers, 

In your time were the fields of Phinehas Bowers ; 

Once or twice since then the domain has changed hands, 

Until huge brick walls now adorn the wide lands, 

And these massive walls are the Peoples College, 

Conceived by lovers of art and of knowledge ; 

* These curious si^ecimens— relics of the Mastodon Maximus^ were found 
some years since, while excavations were being made, on the lands of the late 
Hon. Chas. Cook. The writer is rather inclined to the opinion that several of 
them are at present preserved in the State Cabinet of Natui-al History. 



"Where the rich and the poor imited may stand, 
AVhere science and labor may join hand in hand. 
— Yoa remember the Falls on the west hillside, 
She-qua-;^ah, so long- of our valley the pride ; 
Where Sa-go-yea-wa-tha* in route from the late. 
Toned his clarion voice — " the keeper a^vake." 
And Aunt Sarah's Falls firmly stand as of yore, 
O'er which the white waters unceasingly pour ; 
And though the old land-marks are fast growing few. 
The cold spring yet remains — near lock number two. « 

You will see by this that we cherish your fame, 

Two townships in Schuyler from you take their name ; 

^Montour is the younger, and near by is seen, • 

Iler fair older sister — the town of Catharine ; 

And another fond link, adds strength to the chain, 

'Tis on yon hillside, rising high o'er the plain. 

Where the ones we have loved, lie suent and cold ; 

Their joys are all number'd, their sorrows all told — 

In remembrance of thee, fair Indian maid, 

We have named the lov'd spot, ^yhere our dear ones are laid ; 

And there, we yet hope a proud column wall rise, 

Proqlaiming your worth — pointing up to the skies. 

And now Forest Maiden, we bid thee adieu. 
With Hah-wen-ne-yoh rest, Sa-ha-weef so true ; 
While our beautiful lakes and streams shall endure, 
Will be cherish'd the name of Cath'rine Montour. 
Then sleep A-to-tar-ho, thy warriors brave, 
Like thee Thurenserah, sleep low in the grave ; 

* Red Jacket. It is a well authenticated fact, that this distinguished Seneca 
Chief and orator frequently %asited She-qua-rah, "the place of the roaring 
waters," for practice to increase the volume of his eloquent voice. His Indi- 
an name signified " the keeper awake." 

+ This word signifies in the language of the Iroquois,'" a vine, " and was 
also, sometimes used by them as a'terra of aflcction or endearment. 



73 



On the wave's white crest laving Seneca's shore, 

'No more will be seen thy light-feather'd oar, 

Thy proud Swan-ne-ho-honts, once powerful race, 

Skannadario's* shores, will never more trace ; 

Their batteaux no more on Cataraquif ride, 

As in days that are gone, when thou wert their pride ; 

Though thy braves never more may darken the plain, 

Though here their wild war-songs be heard not again ; 

Yet sleep Thurenserah — the Dawn of the Day — 

AVhen Hah-wen-ne-yoh calls, we too, must obey. 



AUTUMN m THE GLEN. 



BY JOHN WILSOX. 



The fading leaves are falling now — 

The Glen survives its flowers — 
While o'er it sweeps the moaning wyids 

Of Autumn's gloomy hours : 
Its summer hues are fading fast. 

Like hearts which outlive their joy— 
And soon will come stern winter's blast 

Its glories to destroy. 

Around its grey, rock-bound confines 

October clouds career, — 
The torent's dirge — the groaning pine — 

Bewail the fleeting year. 
With rushing and impetuous sweep 

Over the cliffs sublime, 
That gurg'ling torrent rolls Its course 

Like Life — ^the Sea of Time ! 



* Lake Ontario. 

+ The River St. Lawrence. 



74 

A leaf — a sear and wither'd leaf — 

Falls on tlie rusliing spray : . 
Tlie waters bear it on their breast, 

Over the rocks away: — 
Thus life bears on its eddying wave 

Griefs — hopes — joys — it hath seen — 
Leaving no vestige in its course 

That such have ever been. 

Ye torrents ! Lifi: and Time I 

Ye own no tarrying spot below ! 
Still flowing where the the past hath flov^^n, 

Still flowing — and to flovv' ! 
Thus doth 3'on stream tumultuous flow 

O'er rocks and grottoes brown — 
O'er clifi"s — past overhanging woods — 

Down the last Cascade, down. 

Its fateful page the waning year 

Hath silently unroll'd : 
Its joy and sorrow, hope and fear, 

Past — like a tale long told ! 
And leaves it on Faitn s brow the while, 

]S"o trace of buried care ? 
Oh, but for Hope — her word and smile — 

What furrows had been there ! 

So, in this Glen, where late hath bloomed 

Fair Summer's flow'ry sheen, 
The many-tinted leaves now fall 

The rust'ling boughs between. 
But Spring will yet restore each leaf— 

The flowers will bloom again, — 
And Earth forget her transient grief 

'Mid Summer's gentle reign. 



75 

. THE PEOPLES COLLEGE. 

"Another Temple to the Architect above."— Wallace. 

liespectfuUy inscribed to the ixitrons and friends of the Masonic School 

and Asylum^ at Havana, N. Y. 



BY II. C. ■\VIXTON. 



All hail ! thou mammoth pile 
Of brick, .and stone, and lime, 
Wherefore so high doth reach 
Your columns and your walls ? 
It almost seems as if 
You were a thing of life, 
So rapid have you grown. 
Methinks for some wise end 
You were conceived and built ; 
And what is that, now tell ? 
'Twas not for palace — no — 
Commerce — no ; nor war : 
What then ! ah, now I know, 
A modern temple, where 
Art and labor shall combine ; 
To form the perfect man ; 
Within whose stately halls 
The student toils to reach 
The goal of earthly fame. 
With wisdom's honors crowned. 

But why unite the two ? 
For what good reason now 
Should lofty science bow. 
Linked hand in glove with toil ? 
Wherefore unite with classic lore, 
MeGhanic hand or plowman's arm ? 
And dost thou then not know 
That this the age demands, 
A people now are great 



76 

As knowledge guides their hands. 
" Old things have passed aM^aj'," 
The times have greatly changed, 
And he who would be great 
Must be a working man. 

By this, I do not mean 

That 'twas not always thus ; 

It would be wTong to say, 

jSTo true great man has ever lived, 

Who did not work, and often hard. 

The sense in which I mean 

Is this, that any branch of art 

In which you would excel, 

Or trade, or occupation, 

Should be known and well, 

In practice and in theory. 

But whence this idea ? 
And from where did it come ? 
Let me tell you the name 
Of this edifice grand ; 
"When perhaps you can guess, 
What gives to this scheme 
Such a wonderful zest, 
'Tis— The Peoples College, 
And among its best friends. 
Of rank and of station. 
Are lovers of knowledge. 
Hard working, self-made men, 
The pulse of the nation. 
And when one such you find, 
"Which you can easy do. 
You'll meet a friend to art 
And healthy labor, too. 



77 

And kindred ones there arc 

"Who, striving- to erect 

A monument to time — 

A present and a future good — 

K'ow watch with eager eye 

The progress of these walls, 

'Twas of such men as these 

That a Washington came — 

A Franklin and ">Yebster — 

And hosts of others, too, 

AVe can not forget them ; ^ 

They will he remembered 

"While America lasts, 

Or a Europe endures. 

Their cause was their country, 

Their prayers for her good ; 

That cause may it last, 

Those pray'rs be revered, 

"While a nation stands forth 

To present to the world 

A banner of freedom, 

Aye, forever unfurl'd — 

Supported by science. 

Genial labor and art ; 

"With these, together joined. 

Oh who can then foretell 

The future of our land. 

And now, before I leave the theme. 
Your indulgence I ask, and that you 
With favor will regard the scheme ; 
And should you chance to see a youth, 
Perhaps, a wand'ring orphan boy. 
To whom you'd lend a helpiBg hand. 



78 

Along the stormy patli of life ; 
It may be tlien, you'll not forget 
To point him to the Peoples College, 
Where he may learn to walk aright — 
May learn some useful calling, 
Where he may gather wisdom's fruits 
To store away for future needs. 

For such a noble cause as this 
In which all are interested. 
May it be hoped that you 
Will give at least, if nothing more — 
Your earnest, kind, good wishes ? 
But, if with fortune you are blest, 
Kemember, funds are still required. 
And legacies are not refused ; 
(In fact they're really needed ;) 
While small amounts for one great end, 
Together, make a vast account ; 
As sparkling rills and rippling streams. 
The sweeping, mighty river form. 

In such a work, to be enrolled, 
'Twere worthy king or bishop. 
To be engaged in doing good, 
Should be our high ambition ; 
For he who strives to aid the young, 
Ascending in the paths of truth. 
Fulfills a heavenly mission. 
In Sacred Writ these words are said, 
To them we should give earnest heed ; — 
Upon the waters cast thy bi^ead, » 
And after many days have flown, 
To thee, perchance, it may return. 



79 



Thus while the student step by step, 
Cheei*'d by your gracious smile, 
A kindly word — a helping hand, 
Is toiling up the rugged height, 
Where fame and honor hold their sway, 
In the golden realms of knowledge ; 
He will look back and bless the day 
That formed the Peoples College. . 



THE GAVE OP THE E0H0E3. 

IX THE IIAYAXA GLEX. 



BY JOHN WILSON. 



Echoing — edioing — echoing ever, 

The silv'ry -tinted pearl-drops sever 
A way through the rifted rock. 

Echoing — echoing — with ceaseless flow, 
Adown their wave-Avorn path tliey go. 

Echoing — echoing — echoing ever. 
What do the echoes say? — . 

They tell of the Past, its changes vast, 
And the ages flown away ; 
Echoing — echoing — with ceaseless flow, 
Over the rocky ledge they go. 

Dripping, dripping, dripping, 
Noiselessly they flow ; — 
Flowing, flowing, flowing, 
Into the dell below : 

Then, o'er the cascade wildly dashing, 
Over the emerald valley si3lashing. 
In the golden sunbeams flashing. 

Echoing, — echoing — echoing. 

With a tinkling, liquid sound; *,• 
Echoing, echoing, ever 
The cavernous vault around ; . 



60 



Gliding, gliding, gliding, 

Like the Past to Eternity's sliore : 
Vanishing, yauishing, vanishing. 

Like mist on the mountain's hoar. 

Mino-ling, mingling, mingling, 
With the drops which have gone before ; 
Like the hopes and fears 
Of the buried years, 

• That are gone for evermore : 
Or like the graves 
'Xeath the ocean's waves, 
"Which the heedless billows travel o'er, 
Where the sea-bird's tireless pinions soar. 

Echoing, echoing, day by day, 
The echoes tune'their ceaseless lay, 
Singing to the leafy dale 
As the zephyrs fon the vale, 
Iveejnng time with plaintive wail: 
Echoing, echoing, when the night 
Claims the moonbeam's softer light ; — 
Never ceasing, never ending, 
To the morn their music lending, 
With the eve their cadence blending, 
Thro' the night their soft notes sending. 

Echoing^ echoing, echoing, 
Flowing, floAving, flowing, 

* * v* * * 

Dashing, dashing, dashing, 
***** 

Flashing, flashing, flashing, 

Down the drops go 
With endless flow 

Tliro' valley, cave, grotto and all. 

Over the Glen's last Water-fall. 
Mo.vTOUR House, 4th Sept., 1S67. 





ItttI: 



\m 1 






^ H32 75 5^1 



cv, 










, ^^ '"' ^x" <:. ^'^^ ,0^ ^o 








o 
o 






.<^ 



